Title of Invention	NOVEL COSMETIC CREAM COMPOSITIONS
Abstract	Disclosed is a cosmetic cream base comprising 4.0 to 10.0% by weight C12-C20 fatty acid; 1.0 to 5.0% by weight fatty acid soap; and 2.5 to 10.0% by weight particulate matter selected from talc, starch or its' derivates.

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J2132 FORM -2 THE PATENTS ACT, 1970 (39 of 1970) & The Patent Rules, 2003 PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION (See Section 10 and Rule 13) NOVEL COSMETIC CREAM COMPOSITION HINDUSTAN LEVER LIMITED, a company incorporated under the Indian Companies Act, 1913 and having its registered office at Hindustan Lever House, 165/166, Backbay Reclamation, Mumbai -400 020, Maharashtra, India The following specification describes the invention TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to cosmetic cream bases, particularly to improvements on existing vanishing cream 5 bases, and cosmetic cream compositions obtained there from. BACKGROUND Any discussion of the prior art throughout the specification 10 should in no way be considered as an admission that such prior art is widely known or forms part of the common general knowledge in the field. Vanishing creams remain one of the most widely used cosmetics, as they provide unique sensory and tactile 15 benefits. These include inter-alia, a dry and matte end-feel, which helps to overcome the oily and shiny appearance of the skin. Vanishing creams spread easily on the skin and get rapidly absorbed therein. Moreover, use of such creams help to reduce the dryness of skin thereby alleviating 20 flakes, cracks and the roughness. Owing to their widespread use, they serve as effective vehicles for delivery of actives. 2 Traditional vanishing creams contain high levels of fatty acid, generally, Stearic acid or a combination thereof with Palmitic acid, typically ranging from 16 to 20 wt %. They also contain salts of fatty acids, generally alkali metal 5 soap, which acts as the emulsifier. The emulsifier is important for physical stability of the product. The soap is formed by in-situ neutralization of a portion of the fatty acid with caustic potash or any other base. 10 Although Vanishing creams offer several benefits as mentioned above, there are some drawbacks and disadvantages, associated with their use. The high level of fatty acids, typically used in the formulation, poses problems with chemical and physical stability of some actives, especially 15 acidic actives. Therefore, some attempts were made in the past, to make vanishing creams with relatively low levels of fatty acids. The present inventors have observed that, on reducing fatty acids, certain consumer desired sensory benefits, such as rub-in effect, and the viscosity of the 20 cream are adversely affected. In addition to the above, it is known that in vanishing creams containing high levels of stearic acid, especially containing high levels of actives such as Niacinamide, the end-feel and sensorial aspects of the cream are also adversely affected. 3 US 2005/0036971 (Beiersdorf, AG) describes pearlescent cosmetic compositions containing upto 12 wt% fatty acids. A portion of the fatty acids is neutralized to form alkali metal salts. The composition includes associative polymers, 5 amphiphilic polymers and fatty alcohols as other major ingredients, to meet the desired product attributes. Amphiphilic polymers and associative polymers are specialty materials. Their usage in cosmetics is likely to offset the benefits by an increase in cost. 10 The present inventors have found that vanishing creams containing relatively lower amount of fatty acid can be made by including particulate matter selected from talc, starch or its derivatives, along with a relatively higher amount 15 of fatty acid soap, without significantly affecting the above-mentioned benefits desired by the consumers. The present inventors have also found that on application of the composition to the skin, an instant glow is observed, which is a much sought-after product attribute. 20 A combination of talc and fatty acids in cosmetic compositions has been reported, inter-alia for make-up creams, foundation creams and soaps. Such cream formulations generally require very high content of talc, which ranges 4 from 10 to 30%, and low amount of fatty acids, typically less than 5%. US 4800076 (1989, Johnson & Johnson Consumer Products, Inc) 5 describes skin care compositions in the form of creams and lotions containing very low amounts of fatty acids and significantly higher amounts of talc, with a specific ratio of non-volatile ingredients to talc. It is said to enhance the desired characteristics of the skin care compositions. 10 The teaching of this patent cannot be extended to vanishing cream compositions, as this patent essentially describes cosmetic compositions containing relatively higher amount of talc. There is no specific disclosure relating to fatty acid based vanishing creams and the optimal balance between fatty 15 acids and talc to be incorporated therein. The present inventors have provided a solution to a problem in the area of fatty acid based vanishing creams. In addition, the reduction of Stearic acid with a corresponding 20 increase in levels of particulate matter, which is a relatively inexpensive raw material, would also lead to substantial savings in the cost of raw materials. 5 OBJECT OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to overcome or ameliorate at least one of the disadvantages of the prior art vanishing cream bases, or to provide a useful 5 alternative. It is an object of the present invention to provide a cream base including relatively lower amount of fatty acids, without significantly affecting the sensory benefits 10 associated with their use. It is an object of the present invention to provide a vanishing cream composition including relatively lower amount of fatty acids, without adversely affecting the 15 viscosity of the cream composition. It is an object of the present invention to provide a vanishing cream composition that enhances the brightness of the skin. 20 It is an object of the present invention to provide a vanishing cream composition that is capable of incorporation and delivery of relatively higher levels of benefit agents, while retaining the essential sensory attributes. 6 These and other objects of the present invention will become more readily apparent from consideration of the following summary and detailed description. 5 SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION According to an aspect, there is provided a cosmetic cream base for topical application that includes: i. 4.0 to 12.0 % by weight C12-C20 fatty acid; ii. 1.0 to 5.0 % by weight fatty acid soap; and 10 iii. 2.5 to 10.0 % by weight particulate matter selected from talc, starch or its' derivatives. Preferably, the particulate matter is talc. Preferably the composition includes from 6.0 to 10.0 % by weight C12-C20 fatty acid. 15 Preferably, the composition includes from 3.0 to 5.0 % by weight talc. Preferably, the ratio of fatty acid to fatty acid soap is from 10:1 to 1.5:1 parts by weight, and more preferably from 3:1 to 2:1 parts by weight. 20 According to another aspect, there is provided a cosmetic cream composition that includes the cosmetic base and a benefit agent. 7 According to another aspect, there is provided a method of improving appearance of skin by applying the cosmetic cream composition. 5 DETAILED DESCRIPTION According to an aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic cream composition that includes: i. 4.0 to 12.0 % by weight C12-C20 fatty acid; ii. 1.0 to 5.0 % by weight fatty acid soap; and 10 iii. 2.5 to 10.0 % by weight by weight particulate matter selected from talc, starch or its’ derivatives. Fatty acid 15 It is preferred that the composition includes 4-12% by weight C12-C20 fatty acid, more preferably from 5.0 to 8.0 % by weight. It is further preferred that the fatty acid is 6% by weight of the composition. It is Preferred that C14-C18 fatty acids are used. This could be a single fatty acid, 20 such as Palmitic acid or a mixture thereof with Stearic acid, which mixture is referred to as Hysteric acid. It is more preferred that the fatty acid is Stearic acid, which has 18 Carbon atoms. 8 Fatty acid soap It is preferred that the composition includes 1.0 to 5.0% by weight fatty acid soap, more preferably from 2.0 to 3.0%. The term "fatty acid soap" is used to denote alkali metal 5 salts and alkaline earth metal salts of the fatty acid. It is preferred that the soap is a Sodium or Potassium salt. The fatty acid and fatty acid soap are preferably, saturated. Soap of the fatty acid is obtained by neutralizing a portion of the fatty acid with a suitable 10 base such as Sodium hydroxide or Potassium hydroxide. This forms a system that includes the fatty acid in combination with its soap, which acts as an emulsifier and stabilizer for the cream. The weight ratio of fatty acid to fatty acid soap is from 15 10:1 to 1.5:1 and preferably from 3:1 to 2:1. Particulate matter. It is preferred that the particle size of the particulate matter is below 50 microns, more preferably, between 5 and 20 15 microns. It is preferred that starch is obtained from rice or maize. The preferred derivate of starch is "Aluminum octenyl succinate" available as DRY-FLO PC Ex. National Starch. Talc is the preferred particulate matter. It is preferred that 9 the cosmetic cream composition includes 3.0 to 5.0 % by weight talc, more preferably from 3.0 to 4.0 %. The talc which is useful in the present invention is cosmetic grade of talc which conforms to the Cosmetic Toiletry and 5 Fragrance Association, Inc. specifications. Such talc is essentially a white, odorless, fine powder ground from a naturally occurring rock ore and it typically consists of about 90% hydrous magnesium silicate having a structural formula of Mg 6 (Si8O20) - (OH) 4 with the remainder consisting of 10 naturally associated minerals such as calcite, chlorite, dolomite, kaolin and magnesite. It is preferred that the talc contains no asbestos minerals. The preferred particle size is from 4 to 8 microns. 15 Benefit agent The present invention also provides an effective cream base for incorporation and delivery of higher levels of benefit agents, such as Vitamins, without significantly affecting the end-feel of the product. 20 The cream base provides for incorporation and delivery of higher levels of benefit agents, typically from 2 to 10.0 % by weight. Suitable benefit agents include skin lightening agents, UV absorbers, moisturizers and emmolients. It is preferred that the benefit agent is a skin lightening agent 10 or a UV absorber material. Suitable skin lightening agent is selected from niacin, alkali or alkaline earth metal salts of lactic acid and/or acyloxyl lactylate, hydroquinone and derivatives (e.g. arbutin), kojic acid, dicarboxylic acids 5 (e.g. azelaic acid, sebacic acid), represented by the formula HOOC-(CxHy)-COOH where x ranges from 4 to 20 and y ranges from 6 to 40, ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof or ferulic acid. Further skin lightening agents may be retinol and derivatives, organic sunscreens such as 4- 10 tertiary butyl-4'-methyoxy dibenzoylmethane, and/or 2-ethyl hexyl methoxyl cinnamate, inorganic sunscreens such as micronised titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, typically included below 0.5% weight. The further preferred skin lightening agents are niacin and niacinamide. Niacinamide is also known 15 as Pyridine-3-carboxylic acid amide. It is a known skin lightening agent which is preferably included from 0.1 to 3.0 % by weight. The skin lightening effected by the composition of the invention is reversible and without any side effects. The 20 composition according to the invention is active during both day and night. 11 Other adjuvants and emotive materials In addition to the above essential elements, the cosmetic cream composition can also include cosmetically compatible preservatives, thickeners, perfume and colour. The 5 composition may also comprise small amounts of other cosmetically acceptable emulsifiers selected from the group consisting of sorbitan ester, ethoxylated sorbitan ester, ethoxylated alkyl ether, ethoxylated fatty acid ether, fatty alcohol, ethoxylated fatty alcohol and ester of glycerine 10 and fatty acid. Examples of moisturisers and humectants include polyols, glycerol, cetyl alcohol, paraffin oils, lanolin and its derivatives, fatty acid esters, etc. Silicone compounds 15 such as silicone oil, cyclomethicones, dimethicones, dimethiconols may also be included. Emollient materials (fluid oils) selected from the groups of silicone oils or synthetic esters may be incorporated into 20 the compositions of the present invention. The oils are employed in such amount as to not compromise the high skin friction of the inventive compositions. They may be present in a weight ratio to the solid particles, i.e. fatty acids, such that the composition exhibits a normal force value of 12 less than 100 milli-Newton (mN) under the measurement condition defined previously. Weight ratio of emollient material to the solid particles may be less than 1.0, preferably, less than 0.5, most preferably, less than 0.2 5 Oily sunscreens, when used in the composition are considered to be emollient materials, and will be further discussed below. Silicone oils may be included in the compositions as 10 emollient materials. These are preferably chosen from cyclic or linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 9, preferably from 4 to 5, silicon atoms. Other silicone oils may be also included, such as polyalkyl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes and polyether siloxane copolymers 15 (e. g. dimethicone copolyol). The polyalkyl siloxanes useful herein include, for example, polydimethyl siloxanes with viscosities of from 5 to 100,000 centistokes at 25°C, preferably, polydimethyl siloxanes having viscosities from 10 to 400 centistokes at 25°C. 20 Suitable ester emollients include: esters of fatty acids or alcohols and hydrocarbons, preferably C8-C20 alkyl ester of fatty acids such as, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isostearyl palmitate, tridecyl salicylate, C12-15 13 octanoate and isopropyl stearate, or any mixtures thereof. The oils may be employed singly or in mixtures with one another. 5 The inventive composition most preferably further includes an ingredient selected from the group consisting of antioxidants, reducing agents, chelating agents, and mixtures thereof to improve the stability of the cosmetic cream. These ingredients provide additional level of 10 protection against oxidation of skin benefit agents in the cosmetic cream. Common examples of antioxidants, reducing agents and chelating agent for the present composition can be found in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary4 Edition, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance 15 Association, Inc.,Washington, D. C. , 1991. Preferred reducing agents are sodium sulfite, sodium bisulfite, sodium metabisulfite, sodium thiosulfite or other thiols, such as thioglycerol, thiourea, thioglycolic acid, 20 cysteine and the like. Preferable antioxidants are 6-hydroxy- 2,5, 7,8-tetra-methylchroman-2-carboxylic acid (trolox), propyl gallate, n-propyl trihydroxybenzoate, t- butyl hydroquinone and butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), bytylated hydroxyanisole (BHA), tocopheryl acetate, ascorbyl 14 palmitate, hydroquinone, dibutyl hydroquinone and the like. Suitable examples of chelating agents include, but are not limited to, EDTA, citric acid, tartaric acid, organo aminophosphonic acids and organo phosphonic acid components 5 including certain of the commercially available compounds, marketed by MONSANTO. Preferred is 1-hydroxyethylene, (1.1-diphosphonic acid). Organo aminophosphonic acid is an organic compound including of at least one phosphonic acid group, and at least one amino group. 10 Suitable organo aminophosphonic acid components for use herein include the amino alkylene poly (alkylene phosphonic acids) and nitrilo trimethylene phosphonic acids. Examples of this type of organo aminophosphonic acid components 15 include certain of the commercially availableDequestm compounds, marketed by Monsanto. Preferred are amino tri (methylene phosphonic acid) (DEQUEST2006), diethylene triamine penta (methylene phosphonic acid) and hexamethylene diamine tetra (methylene 20 phosphonic acid). Other suitable additional heavy metal ion sequestrants for use herein include nitrilotriacetic acid and polyaminocarboxylic acids such as ethylenediaittinotetfacetic 15 acid, or ethylenetriamine pentacetic acid. Still other suitable additional heavy metal ion sequestrants for use herein are iminodiacetic acid derivatives such as 2-hydroxyethyl diacetic acid or glyceryl imino diacetic acid. 5 Antioxidants are included in the inventive composition in an amount from 0.01 to 10%, preferably from 0.1 to 5%, most preferably from 0.2 to 4% by weight. Reducing agents are included in the inventive composition in an amount from 0.01 10 to 10%, preferably from 0.1 to 5%, most preferably from 0.2 to 4% by weight. Chelating agents are included in the inventive compositions in an amount of from 0.01 to 1%, preferably from 0.05 to 0.5%, most preferably from 0.05 to 0.3% by weight. 15 The invention will now be illustrated by way of examples. The examples are for illustration only and do not, in any way, restrict the scope of the invention. All the percentages referred to herein are in w/w of the 20 composition, unless otherwise indicated. 16 EXAMPLE-1 Cosmetic cream compositions containing varying levels of Fatty acid, talc and fatty acid soap were prepared. The details of the formulations are given in table-1 below. 5 Table-1 Ingredients 1 2 3 4 5 6 Phase A Potassium hydroxide 0.56 0.36 0.36 0.56 0.56 0.56 Water 75.0 75.0 75.0 75.0 75.0 75.0 Glycerine 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Phase-B Hysteric acid 17.9 12.9 7.9 7.9 7.9 5.0 Cetyl alcohol 0.53 0.53 0.53 0.53 0.53 0.53 DC-200(350cst) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Phase C Isopropyl myristate 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 Micronized Ti02 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Parsol MCX 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 Parsol 1789 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Phase D Talc NIL NIL 1.0 5.0 2.0 5.0 Phase E Niacinamide 1.0 1.0 1.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 Minors q.s. q. s. q. s. q.s. q.s. q. s. The product attributes of compositions 1 to 6 are given in table-2 below. Table 2 10 Product attributes 1 2 3 4 5 6 Viscosity/cST 67000 13400 16400 95000 55000 Watery Viscosity measured at Rpm 6 30 30 6 6 17 Procedure Phase-A ingredients were heated to 75°C. Phase-B was heated to 75°C in a container, separate from that of Phase-A. Phase B was added to phase A at 75°C and stirred for 20 minutes 5 followed by the addition of phase C at 70°C. The temperature was reduced to 55°C and slurry of Talc in water was added. Thereafter, the phases were combined, while mixing, with the heat being turned off. Phase-E was heated to 50°C and mixed into phases A and B. The mixture was cooled to 40°C and then 10 the minor ingredients were added. The formulation was cooled to 35°C and packed. Viscosity of the compositions was measured and the results have been included in table-2 above. Composition-1 is the 15 control product, which has ideal viscosity and other desirable product attributes. It will be apparent that viscosity of compositions 2 and 3 was very low and below acceptable limits, while composition 6 was found to be watery in consistency. Viscosity of composition 5 was within 20 acceptable limits, but the product felt draggy feel on the skin and therefore, it could not spread easily upon application. 18 Hysteric acid is a commercially available product, which is a 55:45 mixture of Palmitic acid and Stearic acid. The average equivalent weight of Hysteric acid is 270 g/equivalent. Therefore, 270 g of this product reacts with a 5 stoichiometrically equivalent amount i.e. 56.1 g of Potassium hydroxide (KOH), forming 308g of Potassium salt of Hysteric acid (soap). Therefore, in the above compositions, Hysteric acid would 10 react with the Potassium hydroxide to form some soap of Hysteric acid and the unreacted Hysteric acid would remain in the fatty acid form in the composition. Based on this calculation, the amount of Hysteric acid and Potassium salt of Hysteric acid (soap), in the compositions 2 to 6 were 15 calculated and have been indicated in table-3 below. Table-3 Composition 2 3 4 5 6 Talc NIL 1.0 5.0 2.0 5.0 Added Hysteric acid 12.9 7.9 7.9 7.9 5.0 Added Potassium hydroxide 0.36 0.36 0.56 0.56 0.56 Free Hysteric acid 11.2 6.17 5.2 5.2 2.3 Potassium salt of Hysteric acid (soap) 1.96 1.96 3.08 3.08 3.08 Ratio of free fatty acid: fatty acid soap 5.7:1 3.1:1 1.68: 1 1.68:1 0.74: 1 19 It is apparent that compositions 2, 3, 5 and 6 are outside the scope of the invention. On the other hand, composition 4 where the ratio of free acid to soap is 1.68:1, meets the preferred viscosity profile and also provides the desirable 5 sensorial benefits. Sensory evaluation of the compositions listed in table-1 by expert panellists indicated that product attributes of composition 1 (control) and that of composition 4 were comparable. 10 Example-2: Evaluation of product attributes The composition 4 was evaluated for the product attributes, which are generally desired by the consumers. In an experiment which was conducted with the help of 220 in-house panelists, the individual attributes were tested and rated 15 vis-à-vis the attributes afforded by use of commercially available skin lightening and skin care creams. Products were distributed amongst all panelists randomly and they used the product for 8 days, with 2 applications on the face, per day. In each application ~0.5g of the product was 20 used. At the end of 8 days, they were asked to rate the product that they had used on a scale from 1 to 5, one being low and 5 being high, for the desirable product attributes. The data set was then statistically treated. The results have been compiled and set forth in table -4 below. 20 Table-4 Product FAIR & LOVELYFAIRNESSCREAM DOVEBEAUTYCREAM DOVE BODY SILK Composition 4 Thickness 4.27 4.11 4.16 4.17 Appearance 4.37 4.26 4.23 4.28 Cooling 4.03 4.3 4.26 4.18 Spreadability 4.12 4.3 4.41 4.27 Absorption 4.23 4.19 4.13 4.24 Whiteness 4.07 4.05 4.03 4.15 Feeling 4.19 4.15 4.1 4.25 Look 4.15 4.08 4.02 4.21 Overall 4.12 4.1 4.12 4.26 It can be seen that the composition according to the invention was rated consistently high on all the desired 5 product attributes and in some cases; it was rated higher than the other products. Therefore, by using a relatively inexpensive material, it is possible to provide these attributes. 10 Example-3 Measurement of the brightness index of the cosmetic cream according to the invention and comparison of the same against commercially-available skin lightening vanishing creams. 15 21 Experimental Method: A thin film of the cosmetic cream composition was drawn on LENETA Black/White cards (Form 2A) using a 75 microns applicator. The opacity of this film was measured by using a 5 HUNTERLAB LABSCAN XE instrument under the following conditions: D65 Lighting, CIELAB 10 degree color scale. Measured area = 0.7" diameter circle. Reflection mode (45 degrees) 10 Opacity of the wet film was measured after 5 minutes of application and that of the dried film after 24 hours by placing the film on the machine illumination port. Opacity measurements were done according to standard HUNTERLAB protocol, i.e., comparison between Black and White 15 substrates. The Color measurements were done on White substrates. Results have been included in table-5 below. Table-5 L* value/ 5 minutes L* value/ 24 hours Composition 4 55 45 FAIR & LOVELY 400 56 39 FAIR & LOVELY Multivitamin Cream 51 25 22 It will be appreciated that the brightness index, as measured by the L* values indicate that the instant brightness afforded by the cream according to the invention is comparable to conventional commercially available creams, 5 which are high in Stearic acid content and which are devoid of any talc. It will also be appreciated that the L* values of these commercially available creams decreases significantly after 24 hours, whereas the same value for composition-4 remains appreciably high. This therefore 10 indicates that the illustrated composition provides for instant glow as well as retains the same for an appreciable amount of time. It will be appreciated that the illustrated example, 15 provides for a vanishing cream composition including relatively lower amount of fatty acids, without significantly affecting the sensory benefits associated with their use and viscosity of the product. 20 It will also be appreciated that the illustrated example, provides for a vanishing cream composition that enhances the brightness of the skin. 23 In use, a small quantity of the composition, e.g. 1 to 5 ml, is applied to exposed areas of the skin, from a suitable container or applicator, and if necessary, it is then spread over and/or rubbed into the skin using the hand or fingers. 5 Although the invention has been described with reference to specific embodiments, it will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that the invention may be embodied in many other forms. 10 Dated this 28th day of February 15 HINDUSTAN LEVER LIMITED 24

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