Title of Invention	METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING KNITTED ARTICLES FOR FORMING ITEMS OF CLOTHING, SUCH AS BODY SUITS, SLEEVELESS TOPS, UNDERSHIRTS, BRAS, UNDERPANTS OR THE LIKE, WITHOUT LATERAL SEAMS, WITH A CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE
Abstract	A method for manufacturing knitted articles for forming items of clothing, such as body suits, sleeveless lops, undershirts, bras, underpants or the like, without lateral seams, with a circular knitting machine, comprising a step for forming at least one pouch-like region (13a, 13b, 23a, 23b, 25a, 25b), in which part of the needles or all the needles that belong to at least one sector of the needle cylinder are moved to knit at at least one feed of the machine by actuating the needle cylinder of the machine with an alternating rotary motion about its axis and with an extent of oscillation that is sufficient to produce the transit, at the feed, of all the needles of the sector that are moved so as to knit at the feed, in order to form, with the needles that belong to the sector and are moved so as to knit, a number of rows of knitting in excess with respect to the number of rows of knitting formed by the needles that are contiguous to the sector.

Title of Invention

METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING KNITTED ARTICLES FOR FORMING ITEMS OF CLOTHING, SUCH AS BODY SUITS, SLEEVELESS TOPS, UNDERSHIRTS, BRAS, UNDERPANTS OR THE LIKE, WITHOUT LATERAL SEAMS, WITH A CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE

Abstract

A method for manufacturing knitted articles for forming items of clothing, such as body suits, sleeveless lops, undershirts, bras, underpants or the like, without lateral seams, with a circular knitting machine, comprising a step for forming at least one pouch-like region (13a, 13b, 23a, 23b, 25a, 25b), in which part of the needles or all the needles that belong to at least one sector of the needle cylinder are moved to knit at at least one feed of the machine by actuating the needle cylinder of the machine with an alternating rotary motion about its axis and with an extent of oscillation that is sufficient to produce the transit, at the feed, of all the needles of the sector that are moved so as to knit at the feed, in order to form, with the needles that belong to the sector and are moved so as to knit, a number of rows of knitting in excess with respect to the number of rows of knitting formed by the needles that are contiguous to the sector.

Full Text	METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING KNITTED ARTICLES FOR FORMING ITEMS OF CLOTHING, SUCH AS BODY SUITS, SLEEVELESS TOPS, UNDERSHIRTS, BRAS, UNDERPANTS OR THE LIKE, WITHOUT LATERAL SEAMS, WITH A CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE Technical Field The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing knitted articles for forming items of clothing, such as body suits, sleeveless tops, undershirts, bras, underpants or the like, without lateral seams, with a circular knitting machine. Background Art As is known, in the production of knitted articles for forming items of clothing, particularly of the type of body suits and bras, with circular knitting machines it is necessary to form pouch-like regions, for example for forming the cups of a bra. The need to provide pouch-like regions, in order to adapt the shape of the article to its particular use or simply to achieve merely aesthetic effects, is felt also in the production of articles to be used for the production of other items of clothing, such as for example undershirts, sleeveless tops, underpants, et cetera. Currently, pouch-like regions on tubular articles produced with circular knitting machuies are obtained, in some cases, by varying the tightness of the knitting. In other cases, the pouch-like regions are obtained by making a set of needles knit at one or more feeds or drops of the machine while the other needles remain unused during the actuation of the needle cylinder with a continuous rotary motion about its own axis, so as to produce, by means of said set of needles, rows of knitting in excess with respect to the rows of knitting formed by the other needles and by necessarily cutting the thread or threads used to form these excess rows of knitting proximate to the last needle of the set of actuated needles. In other cases, a combination of these two knitting methods is put into practice and/or highly extensible threads are used in order to enhance shaping and improve the fit of the item of clothing. These refinements do not fully meet the various requirements, since a variation in the tightness of the knitting determines a variation of the degree of transparency of the item of clothing, while making a set of needles knit while the other needles remain inactive, by requiring cuttiag of the thread used to produce the excess rows, has negative effects on the degree of finish of the item of clothing and on its fit. Disclosure of the Invention The aim of the present invention is to solve the above-cited problems by providing a method for manufacturing knitted articles for forming items of clothing such as body suits, sleeveless tops, undershirts, bras, underpants or the like, without lateral seams, with a circular knitting machine, which allows to obtain pouch-like regions that are fiilly satisfactory both from an aesthetic standpoint and as regards fit. Within this aim, an object of the invention is to provide a method that allows to provide pouch-like regions on tubular articles without cutting the thread proximate to the perimeter of the pouch-like regions. Another object of the invention is to provide a method that allows to produce knitted articles having pouch-like regions with the productivity that is typical of circular knitting machines. This aim and these and other objects that will become better apparent hereinafter are achieved by a method for manufacturing knitted articles for forming items of clothing, such as body suits, sleeveless tops, undershirts, bras, underpants or the like, without lateral seams, with a circular knitting machine, chiaracterized in that it comprises a step for formiag at least one pouch-like region in which part of the needles or all the needles that belong to at least one sector of the needle cylinder are moved to knit at at least one feed of the machine by actuating the needle cylinder of the machine with an alternating rotary motion about the axis thereof and with an extent of oscillation that is sufficient to make transiting, at said at least one feed, all the needles of said at least one sector that are moved for knitting at said at least one feed, in order to form, with the needles that belong to said at least one sector and are moved for knitting, a number of rows of knitting in excess with respect to the number of rows of knitting formed by the needles that are contiguous to said at least one sector. Brief description of the drawings Further characteristics and advantages of the invention will become better apparent from the description of a preferred but not exclusive embodiment of the method according to the invention, illustrated by way of non-limiting example in the accompanying drawings, wherein: Figure 1 is a view of a bra obtained with an article produced with the method according to the invention; Figure 2 is a diagram of the production of the article for forming the bra of Figure 1; Figure 3 is a view of an undershirt obtained with an article produced with the method according to the invention; Figure 4 is a diagram for the production of the article for forming the undershirt of Figure 3. The method according to the invention can be performed with circular knitting machines in which the needle cylinder can be actuated with a rotary motion about its own axis in both directions of rotation, for example a machine of the type described in a co-pending Patent Application by the same Applicant. Ways to carrying out the Invention With reference to the figures, the method according to the invention comprises, dui^ing the formation of an article with a circular knitting machine of a t}pe as indicated above, a step for forming at least one pouch- like region 13a, 13b, 23a, 23b, 25a, 25b, in which part of the needles, or all the needles, arranged in at least one sector of the needle cylinder, are moved SO as to knit at at least one feed or drop of the machine by actuating the needle cylinder with an alternating rotary motion about its own axis and with an extent of 9Scillation that is sufficient to cause the transit, in front of said feed, of all the needles of the sector that are moved to knit, and so as to form, with said needles moved to knit, a number of rows of knitting in excess with respect to the number of rows of knitting formed by the needles that are contiguous to said sector. The step for forming the pouch-like region or regions is preferably preceded and/or followed by a step for forming a tubular portion of knitting 11, 12, 21, 22, 24, made of rows of knitting, in which all the needles or part of the needles distributed along the entire circumferential extension of die needle cylinder are moved so as to knit at at least one feed of the machine and the needle cylinder is actuated with a continuous rotary motion about its axis. The shape of the pouch-like region or regions 13 a, 13 b, 23 a, 23 b, 25 a, 25b can be changed by varying the number of needles of the sector or sectors cited above that are moved so as to knit at the corresponding feed and/or the breadth of the sector or sectors. The shape of the pouch-like region or regions 13a, 13b, 23a, 23b, 25a, 25b can be changed for example by gradually increasing or decreasing the number of needles of the sector that are moved so as to knit at the corresponding feed, or by first increasing and then decreasing, or vice versa, the number of needles of the sector that are made to knit at the corresponding feed, as will become better apparent hereinafter. The shape of the pouch-like region or regions 13a, 13b, 23a, 23b, 25a, 25b can also be changed by producing, during the forming of the pouch-like region or regions, some rows of knitting 14, 24, by moving so as to knit at one or more feeds of the machine not only the needles that belong to the sector or sectors that form the excess rows of knitting for forming the pouch-like region or regions, but also all or part of the needles distributed along the entire circumferential extension of the needle cylinder. In greater detail, with particular reference to Figures 1 and 2, one proceeds as follows to produce an article for forming a bra 10 with the method according to the invention. Initially, i:he tabs la, lb, Ic and Id are produced by using all or part of the needles of the machine that are arranged in four sectors of the needle cylinder that ai'e angularly spaced form each other around the axis of the needle cylinder. Each one of these sectors is correlated to a feed or drop of the machine at which all or part of the needles that belong to that given sector correlated thereto are moved so as to knit. The needle cylinder is actuated with an alternating rotary motion about its own axis with an oscillation extent that is sufficient to produce the transit, in front of a feed, of all the needles moved to knit of the sector correlated thereto. In this manner, each forward or return oscillation of the needle cylinder about its own axis forms a row of knitting of the tabs la-Id. Proximate to the lateral ends of the tabs la-Id, knitting is formed with a section of the needles that must form these regions, with the needle inactive in a one-to-one configuration or with the needle in the one-to-one inactive configuration in order to obtain a higher knitting thick ness at said regions. More particularly, in the selection with the needle in the one-to-one inactive configuration, considering a set of needles located at the ends of a corresponding sector, alternately, during the during the rotation in one direction of the needle cylinder, a needle of said set is deactivated and peisses, with its hook below the sinkers of the machine, while the contiguous needle is moved so as to knit at the feed being considered and forms a dropped stitch; during the rotation of the needle cylinder in the opposite direction, the needle, previously excluded from knitting, is moved so as to knit, while the contiguous needle is moved so as to be inactive. In selection with the needle in the one-to-one inactive configuration, considering a set of needles located at the ends of corresponding sector, alternately, durmg the rotation of the needle cylinder in one direction, one needle of this set is lifted to the tuck-stitch level so as to engage the thread supplied at the feed being considered without releasing the previously formed loop, while the contiguous needle is moved so as to knit at the feed being considered and forms a dropped stitch; during the rotation of the needle cylinder in the opposite direction, the needle that previously had been raised to the tuck-stitch level is actuated so as to form a dropped stitch, while the contiguous needle is raised to the tuck-stitch level. Proximate to the end of the formation of the tabs la-Id, the number of needles moved to knit for each sector and/or the breadth of the sectors can be increased so as to blend the tabs la-Id in with the remaining part of the article. At the end of the formation of the tabs la-Id, the needle cylinder is actuated with £l continuous rotary motion about its own axis, and the needles of the machine are moved so as to knit preferably at all the feeds of the machine, so as to rapidly form a tubular portion of knitting 11. At the end of this tubular portion of knitting 11, the needles that will be excluded firom knitting in the subsequent step retain the last loop of knitting in their hook and are kept lowered so that their hook lies below the knockover plane of the sinkers of the machine. In the subsequent step, the two pouch-like regions 13 a, 13b that form the cups of the bra are formed simultaneously. During this step, all or part of the needles ol' two sectors of the needle cylinder that are angularly spaced from each otlner around the axis of the needle cylinder are used, and tlie needle cylinder is actuated with an alternating rotary motion about its own axis. The needles that belong to one sector are moved so as to knit at one feed of the machine, while the needles that belong to the other sector are moved so as to knit at another feed of the machine. The number of needles of each sector that knit at the corresponding feed is gradually increased and then gradually decreased, so as to achieve the intended shape of the corresponding, cup. The needles of the two sectors that are actuated at the two feeds produce rows of knitting in excess with respect to the other needles of the machine, thus forming the two cups of the bra. Owing to the fact that the pouch-like regions 13a, 13b are produced by forming excess rows of knitting on some needles and reversing the rotation of the needle cylinder after the last of these needles has taken the thread at the (corresponding feed, there is no need to perfonn thread cutting and therefore there are no imsightly trailing threads proximate to the perimeter of the pouch-like regions. It should be noted that the shaping of the two cups of the bras can be improved, as explained above, by producing, in addition to the rows of knitting formed only with the needles that belong to said two sectors, rows of knitting formed by using all the needles of the machine or otherwise distributed along the entire circumferential extension of the needle cylinder. Optionally, by using suitable needle selections, such as for example inactive needles or needles in the tuck-stitch position, it is possible to obtain, at the lower part of the cups or proximate to the borders of the cups or in other regions, reinforcement areas adapted to support or reinforce the breast. After ibrming the cups, another tubular portion of knitting 12 is formed by using all the needles of the needle cylinder or part of said needles distributed along the entire circumferential extension of the needle cylinder and by using all or part of the feeds of the machine. This tubular portion 12, which constitutes a knitting completion border, can be produced entirely or partially as a folded double border, in a per se known manner. The article is then disengaged from the needles and unloaded from the machine. To fmish the bra, it is sufficient to join, by sewing, the ends of the tabs la, Id and lb, Ic in order to close the shoulder straps. With particular reference to Figures 3 and 4, one proceeds as follows to produce an article for forming an undershirt 20 with the method according to the invention. Initially, the tabs 2a-2d are produced, as already described with reference to Figures 1 and 2. After producing the tabs 2a-2d, a first Inibular portion of knitting 21 is produced by actuating the needle cylinder with a continuous rotary motion about its own axis and by moving so as to knit all the needles of the machine or part of said needles, distributed along the entire circumferential extension of the needle cylinder at all the feeds of the machine or at part of them, in a manner similar to what has been described with reference to the formation of the shoulder straps la-Id and the tubular portion 11 of the bra of Figures 1 and 2. After forming the tubular portion 21, the pouch-like regions 23 a, 23b, which constitute the bra cups for the undershirt, are formed in a manner similar to what has been described already with reference to Figures 1 and 2. In Figure 4, the rows of knitting that correspond to the rows 14 of Figure 2 have been designated by the reference numeral 26. The production of pouch-like regions is not aimed exclusively at providing bra cups but can also be produced for meeting aesthetic requirements, as shown by the undershirt of Figures 3 and 4, in wlrich two pouch-like regions 25a, 25b that constitute two pockets are formed. Said pockets are produced, after forming another tubular portion 22 of knitting produced like the tubular portion 21, in a manner similar to the production of the bra cups, with the difference that the number of needles of one or more sectors of the needle cylinder, depending on the number of pockets to be produced, that are moved so as to knit at the corresponding feed is gradually first decreased and then increased, retaining the last formed loop of knitting in the hook of the needles that are gradually excluded fi-om knitting and pass with their hook below the knockover plane of the sinkers of the machine and then resume knitting when the number of active needles is increased. In this manner, the needles of the sector or sectors that ;ire used form rows of knitting in excess with respect to the other needles of the machine, forming one or more pouches, which can be folded inwardly toward the reverse side of the article, obtaining one or more pockets. The knitting of the article is then completed with a further tubular . portion of knitting 24, which constitutes the knitting completion border. Such knitting completion border can be produced in a per se known manner as a double folded border. The article? is then disengaged from the needles and unloaded from the machine. To complete the undershirt 20, it is sufficient to join, by sewing, the ends of the tabs 2a, 2d and 2b, 2c in order to close the shoulder straps. Depending on the type of item of clothing to be provided, all or part of the threads used to produce the article may be optionally pretensioned elastic threads. During the knitting of the article it is possible to perform, in a per se known manner, particular types of knitting and/or patterns suitable to further improve the aesthetic appearance of the product. In practic;e it has been found that the method according to the invention fully achieves the intended aim, since it allows to produce, with a circular knitting; machine, articles for forming items such as body suits, sleeveless tops, undershirts, bras, underpants or the like, without lateral seams and with pouch-like regions that are fully satisfactory from an aesthetic standpoint and as regards fit. The method thus conceived is susceptible of numerous modifications and variations, all of which are within the scope of the appended claims; all the details may further be replaced with other technically equivalent elements. In practice, the materials used, as well as the dimensions, may be any according to requirements and to tlic state of the art. The disclosures in Italian Patent AppUcation No. MI2003A001369 from which this application claims priority are incorporated herein by reference. WE CLAIM 1. A method for manufacturing knitted articles for forming items of cfothing, such as body suits, sleeveless tops, undershirts, bras, underpants or the like, without lateral seams, with a circular knitting machine, comprising a step for forming at least one pouch-like region (13a, 13b,23a,23b,25a,25b) in which part of the needles or all the needles that belong to at least one sector of the needle cylinder are moved to knit at at least one feed of the machine b\ actuating the needle cylinder of the machine with an alternating rotary motion about the axis thereof and with an extent of oscillation that is sufficient to make transiting, at said at least one feed, all the needles of said at least one sector that are mo\ed for knittins at said at least one feed, in order to form, with the needles that belong to said at least one sector and are moved for knitting, a number of rows of knitting in excess with respect to the number of rows of knitting formed by the needles that are contiguous to said at least one sector, characterized in that said step for forming at least one pouch-like region (13a,13b,23a,23b,25a.25b) comprises the simultaneous production of at least two pouch-like regions, in which needles belonging to at least two sectors of the needle c_\linder thai are angularK spaced from each other around the axis of the needle c>linder are mo\'ed so as to knit at a different feed for each one of said sectors and the needle cylinder is actuated with an alternating rotar\ motion about its own axis with an oscillation extent that produces the transit, in from of the corresponding feed, of all the needles of the correlated sector that are mo\ed so as to knit in order to form, with the needles that belong to said at least two sectors and are moved so as to knit at the corresponding feeds. ro\\s of knitting in excess with respect to the rows of knitting formed, during said step for forming the pouch-like regions, b\' the needles that are contiguous to said at least two sectors.. . ' 2. The method -according-~trrclaim 1, wherein during said step for forming pouch-like regions (13a,13b,23a,23b,25a,25b), rows of knitiing are also formed bs making all or part of the needles distributed along the entire circumferential extension of the needle cylinder knit at said at least one 3. The method according to claim 1, wherein during said step for forming pouch-like regions (13a,13b,23a,23b,25a,25b) the number of needles that belong to said at least one sector and are moved to knit at the corresponding feed is increased gradually. 4. The method according te claim 1, wherein during said step for forming at least one pouch-like region (13a,13b,23a,23b,25a,25b) the number of needles that belong to said at least one sector and are mo\ed to knit at the corresponding feed is decreased gradually. 5. The method-according to-one or more of the preceding claims. wherein during said step for forming at least one pouch-like region (13a, 13b,23a.23b,25a,25b) the number of needles that belong to said at least one sector and are moved so as to knit at the corresponding feed is first increased gradually and then decreased gradually. 6. The method according to-one or more of the preceding claims. wherein during said step for forming pouch-like legions (13a, 13b.23a.23b,25a,25b) the number of needles that belong to said at least one sector and are moved to knit at the cotTesponding feed is first deci^eased gradual!} and then increased gradually. 7. The method according to-one or more of the preceding claims. wherein during said step for forming pouch-like regions (13a, 13b.23a,23b,25a,25b) the number of needles that belong to said at least one sector and are moved to knit at the corresponding feed is first decreased gradually, retaining the last formed loop of knitting in the hook of the needles that are gradually excluded from knitting, and is then increased gradually b\ resuming knitting also with the needles previously graduall> excluded from knitting that had retained in their hook the last formed loop of knittinii. 8. The method as claimed in one or more of the preceding claims, wherein before said step for forming pouch-like regions (13a,13b.23a.23b.25a,25b), a step for forming at least one tubular portion of knitting is performed by moving so as to knit, at at least one feed or drop of the machine, all the needles or part of the needles of the needle cylinder distributed along the entire circumferential extension of the needle cylinder, and the needle cylinder is actuated with a continuous rotar\ motion about its own axis. 9. The method as claimed in one or more of the preceding claims, wherein after said step for fonning at least one pouch-like region ( 13a, 13b,23a,23b,25a,25b), a step for forming at least one tubular portion of knitting is performed by moving so as to knit, at at least one feed or drop of the machine, all the needles or part of the needles of the needle cylinder distributed along the entire circumferential extension of the needle cylinder, and the needle cylinder is actuated with a continuous rotary motion about its own axis. 10. The method as claimed in one or more of the preceding claims, wherein at least part of said tubular portion of knitting (12) is produced as a double folded border. A method for manufacturing knitted articles for forming items of clothing, such as body suits, sleeveless lops, undershirts, bras, underpants or the like, without lateral seams, with a circular knitting machine, comprising a step for forming at least one pouch-like region (13a, 13b, 23a, 23b, 25a, 25b), in which part of the needles or all the needles that belong to at least one sector of the needle cylinder are moved to knit at at least one feed of the machine by actuating the needle cylinder of the machine with an alternating rotary motion about its axis and with an extent of oscillation that is sufficient to produce the transit, at the feed, of all the needles of the sector that are moved so as to knit at the feed, in order to form, with the needles that belong to the sector and are moved so as to knit, a number of rows of knitting in excess with respect to the number of rows of knitting formed by the needles that are contiguous to the sector.

Full Text

METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING KNITTED ARTICLES FOR
FORMING ITEMS OF CLOTHING, SUCH AS BODY SUITS,
SLEEVELESS TOPS, UNDERSHIRTS, BRAS, UNDERPANTS OR THE
LIKE, WITHOUT LATERAL SEAMS, WITH A CIRCULAR KNITTING
MACHINE
Technical Field
The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing knitted
articles for forming items of clothing, such as body suits, sleeveless tops,
undershirts, bras, underpants or the like, without lateral seams, with a
circular knitting machine.
Background Art
As is known, in the production of knitted articles for forming items of
clothing, particularly of the type of body suits and bras, with circular
knitting machines it is necessary to form pouch-like regions, for example for
forming the cups of a bra. The need to provide pouch-like regions, in order
to adapt the shape of the article to its particular use or simply to achieve
merely aesthetic effects, is felt also in the production of articles to be used
for the production of other items of clothing, such as for example
undershirts, sleeveless tops, underpants, et cetera.
Currently, pouch-like regions on tubular articles produced with
circular knitting machuies are obtained, in some cases, by varying the
tightness of the knitting. In other cases, the pouch-like regions are obtained
by making a set of needles knit at one or more feeds or drops of the machine
while the other needles remain unused during the actuation of the needle
cylinder with a continuous rotary motion about its own axis, so as to
produce, by means of said set of needles, rows of knitting in excess with
respect to the rows of knitting formed by the other needles and by
necessarily cutting the thread or threads used to form these excess rows of
knitting proximate to the last needle of the set of actuated needles.
In other cases, a combination of these two knitting methods is put into

practice and/or highly extensible threads are used in order to enhance
shaping and improve the fit of the item of clothing.
These refinements do not fully meet the various requirements, since a
variation in the tightness of the knitting determines a variation of the degree
of transparency of the item of clothing, while making a set of needles knit
while the other needles remain inactive, by requiring cuttiag of the thread
used to produce the excess rows, has negative effects on the degree of finish
of the item of clothing and on its fit.
Disclosure of the Invention
The aim of the present invention is to solve the above-cited problems
by providing a method for manufacturing knitted articles for forming items
of clothing such as body suits, sleeveless tops, undershirts, bras, underpants
or the like, without lateral seams, with a circular knitting machine, which
allows to obtain pouch-like regions that are fiilly satisfactory both from an
aesthetic standpoint and as regards fit.
Within this aim, an object of the invention is to provide a method that
allows to provide pouch-like regions on tubular articles without cutting the
thread proximate to the perimeter of the pouch-like regions.
Another object of the invention is to provide a method that allows to
produce knitted articles having pouch-like regions with the productivity that
is typical of circular knitting machines.
This aim and these and other objects that will become better apparent
hereinafter are achieved by a method for manufacturing knitted articles for
forming items of clothing, such as body suits, sleeveless tops, undershirts,
bras, underpants or the like, without lateral seams, with a circular knitting
machine, chiaracterized in that it comprises a step for formiag at least one
pouch-like region in which part of the needles or all the needles that belong
to at least one sector of the needle cylinder are moved to knit at at least one
feed of the machine by actuating the needle cylinder of the machine with an
alternating rotary motion about the axis thereof and with an extent of

oscillation that is sufficient to make transiting, at said at least one feed, all
the needles of said at least one sector that are moved for knitting at said at
least one feed, in order to form, with the needles that belong to said at least
one sector and are moved for knitting, a number of rows of knitting in
excess with respect to the number of rows of knitting formed by the needles
that are contiguous to said at least one sector.
Brief description of the drawings
Further characteristics and advantages of the invention will become
better apparent from the description of a preferred but not exclusive
embodiment of the method according to the invention, illustrated by way of
non-limiting example in the accompanying drawings, wherein:
Figure 1 is a view of a bra obtained with an article produced with the
method according to the invention;
Figure 2 is a diagram of the production of the article for forming the
bra of Figure 1;
Figure 3 is a view of an undershirt obtained with an article produced
with the method according to the invention;
Figure 4 is a diagram for the production of the article for forming the
undershirt of Figure 3.
The method according to the invention can be performed with circular
knitting machines in which the needle cylinder can be actuated with a rotary
motion about its own axis in both directions of rotation, for example a
machine of the type described in a co-pending Patent Application by the
same Applicant.
Ways to carrying out the Invention
With reference to the figures, the method according to the invention
comprises, dui^ing the formation of an article with a circular knitting
machine of a t}pe as indicated above, a step for forming at least one pouch-
like region 13a, 13b, 23a, 23b, 25a, 25b, in which part of the needles, or all
the needles, arranged in at least one sector of the needle cylinder, are moved

SO as to knit at at least one feed or drop of the machine by actuating the
needle cylinder with an alternating rotary motion about its own axis and
with an extent of 9Scillation that is sufficient to cause the transit, in front of
said feed, of all the needles of the sector that are moved to knit, and so as to
form, with said needles moved to knit, a number of rows of knitting in
excess with respect to the number of rows of knitting formed by the needles
that are contiguous to said sector.
The step for forming the pouch-like region or regions is preferably
preceded and/or followed by a step for forming a tubular portion of knitting
11, 12, 21, 22, 24, made of rows of knitting, in which all the needles or part
of the needles distributed along the entire circumferential extension of die
needle cylinder are moved so as to knit at at least one feed of the machine
and the needle cylinder is actuated with a continuous rotary motion about its
axis.
The shape of the pouch-like region or regions 13 a, 13 b, 23 a, 23 b, 25 a,
25b can be changed by varying the number of needles of the sector or
sectors cited above that are moved so as to knit at the corresponding feed
and/or the breadth of the sector or sectors.
The shape of the pouch-like region or regions 13a, 13b, 23a, 23b, 25a,
25b can be changed for example by gradually increasing or decreasing the
number of needles of the sector that are moved so as to knit at the
corresponding feed, or by first increasing and then decreasing, or vice versa,
the number of needles of the sector that are made to knit at the
corresponding feed, as will become better apparent hereinafter.
The shape of the pouch-like region or regions 13a, 13b, 23a, 23b, 25a,
25b can also be changed by producing, during the forming of the pouch-like
region or regions, some rows of knitting 14, 24, by moving so as to knit at
one or more feeds of the machine not only the needles that belong to the
sector or sectors that form the excess rows of knitting for forming the
pouch-like region or regions, but also all or part of the needles distributed
along the entire circumferential extension of the needle cylinder.
In greater detail, with particular reference to Figures 1 and 2, one
proceeds as follows to produce an article for forming a bra 10 with the method
according to the invention.
Initially, i:he tabs la, lb, Ic and Id are produced by using all or part of
the needles of the machine that are arranged in four sectors of the needle
cylinder that ai'e angularly spaced form each other around the axis of the
needle cylinder. Each one of these sectors is correlated to a feed or drop of the
machine at which all or part of the needles that belong to that given sector
correlated thereto are moved so as to knit. The needle cylinder is actuated with
an alternating rotary motion about its own axis with an oscillation extent that is
sufficient to produce the transit, in front of a feed, of all the needles moved to
knit of the sector correlated thereto. In this manner, each forward or return
oscillation of the needle cylinder about its own axis forms a row of knitting of
the tabs la-Id.
Proximate to the lateral ends of the tabs la-Id, knitting is formed with a
section of the needles that must form these regions, with the needle inactive in
a one-to-one configuration or with the needle in the one-to-one inactive
configuration in order to obtain a higher knitting thick ness at said regions.
More particularly, in the selection with the needle in the one-to-one inactive
configuration, considering a set of needles located at the ends of a
corresponding sector, alternately, during the during the rotation in one
direction of the needle cylinder, a needle of said set is deactivated and peisses,
with its hook below the sinkers of the machine, while the contiguous needle is
moved so as to knit at the feed being considered and forms a dropped stitch;
during the rotation of the needle cylinder in the opposite direction, the needle,
previously excluded from knitting, is moved so as to knit, while the contiguous
needle is moved so as to be inactive.
In selection with the needle in the one-to-one inactive configuration,
considering a set of needles located at the ends of corresponding sector,

alternately, durmg the rotation of the needle cylinder in one direction, one
needle of this set is lifted to the tuck-stitch level so as to engage the thread
supplied at the feed being considered without releasing the previously
formed loop, while the contiguous needle is moved so as to knit at the feed
being considered and forms a dropped stitch; during the rotation of the
needle cylinder in the opposite direction, the needle that previously had
been raised to the tuck-stitch level is actuated so as to form a dropped stitch,
while the contiguous needle is raised to the tuck-stitch level.
Proximate to the end of the formation of the tabs la-Id, the number of
needles moved to knit for each sector and/or the breadth of the sectors can
be increased so as to blend the tabs la-Id in with the remaining part of the
article.
At the end of the formation of the tabs la-Id, the needle cylinder is
actuated with £l continuous rotary motion about its own axis, and the needles
of the machine are moved so as to knit preferably at all the feeds of the
machine, so as to rapidly form a tubular portion of knitting 11.
At the end of this tubular portion of knitting 11, the needles that will
be excluded firom knitting in the subsequent step retain the last loop of
knitting in their hook and are kept lowered so that their hook lies below the
knockover plane of the sinkers of the machine.
In the subsequent step, the two pouch-like regions 13 a, 13b that form
the cups of the bra are formed simultaneously. During this step, all or part of
the needles ol' two sectors of the needle cylinder that are angularly spaced
from each otlner around the axis of the needle cylinder are used, and tlie
needle cylinder is actuated with an alternating rotary motion about its own
axis. The needles that belong to one sector are moved so as to knit at one
feed of the machine, while the needles that belong to the other sector are
moved so as to knit at another feed of the machine. The number of needles
of each sector that knit at the corresponding feed is gradually increased and
then gradually decreased, so as to achieve the intended shape of the

corresponding, cup. The needles of the two sectors that are actuated at the
two feeds produce rows of knitting in excess with respect to the other
needles of the machine, thus forming the two cups of the bra.
Owing to the fact that the pouch-like regions 13a, 13b are produced
by forming excess rows of knitting on some needles and reversing the
rotation of the needle cylinder after the last of these needles has taken the
thread at the (corresponding feed, there is no need to perfonn thread cutting
and therefore there are no imsightly trailing threads proximate to the
perimeter of the pouch-like regions.
It should be noted that the shaping of the two cups of the bras can be
improved, as explained above, by producing, in addition to the rows of
knitting formed only with the needles that belong to said two sectors, rows
of knitting formed by using all the needles of the machine or otherwise
distributed along the entire circumferential extension of the needle cylinder.
Optionally, by using suitable needle selections, such as for example
inactive needles or needles in the tuck-stitch position, it is possible to
obtain, at the lower part of the cups or proximate to the borders of the cups
or in other regions, reinforcement areas adapted to support or reinforce the
breast.
After ibrming the cups, another tubular portion of knitting 12 is
formed by using all the needles of the needle cylinder or part of said needles
distributed along the entire circumferential extension of the needle cylinder
and by using all or part of the feeds of the machine. This tubular portion 12,
which constitutes a knitting completion border, can be produced entirely or
partially as a folded double border, in a per se known manner.
The article is then disengaged from the needles and unloaded from the
machine. To fmish the bra, it is sufficient to join, by sewing, the ends of the
tabs la, Id and lb, Ic in order to close the shoulder straps.
With particular reference to Figures 3 and 4, one proceeds as follows
to produce an article for forming an undershirt 20 with the method

according to the invention.
Initially, the tabs 2a-2d are produced, as already described with
reference to Figures 1 and 2. After producing the tabs 2a-2d, a first Inibular
portion of knitting 21 is produced by actuating the needle cylinder with a
continuous rotary motion about its own axis and by moving so as to knit all
the needles of the machine or part of said needles, distributed along the
entire circumferential extension of the needle cylinder at all the feeds of the
machine or at part of them, in a manner similar to what has been described
with reference to the formation of the shoulder straps la-Id and the tubular
portion 11 of the bra of Figures 1 and 2.
After forming the tubular portion 21, the pouch-like regions 23 a, 23b,
which constitute the bra cups for the undershirt, are formed in a manner
similar to what has been described already with reference to Figures 1 and
2. In Figure 4, the rows of knitting that correspond to the rows 14 of Figure
2 have been designated by the reference numeral 26.
The production of pouch-like regions is not aimed exclusively at
providing bra cups but can also be produced for meeting aesthetic
requirements, as shown by the undershirt of Figures 3 and 4, in wlrich two
pouch-like regions 25a, 25b that constitute two pockets are formed. Said
pockets are produced, after forming another tubular portion 22 of knitting
produced like the tubular portion 21, in a manner similar to the production
of the bra cups, with the difference that the number of needles of one or
more sectors of the needle cylinder, depending on the number of pockets to
be produced, that are moved so as to knit at the corresponding feed is
gradually first decreased and then increased, retaining the last formed loop
of knitting in the hook of the needles that are gradually excluded fi-om
knitting and pass with their hook below the knockover plane of the sinkers
of the machine and then resume knitting when the number of active needles
is increased. In this manner, the needles of the sector or sectors that ;ire used
form rows of knitting in excess with respect to the other needles of the

machine, forming one or more pouches, which can be folded inwardly
toward the reverse side of the article, obtaining one or more pockets.
The knitting of the article is then completed with a further tubular .
portion of knitting 24, which constitutes the knitting completion border.
Such knitting completion border can be produced in a per se known manner
as a double folded border.
The article? is then disengaged from the needles and unloaded from the
machine. To complete the undershirt 20, it is sufficient to join, by sewing,
the ends of the tabs 2a, 2d and 2b, 2c in order to close the shoulder straps.
Depending on the type of item of clothing to be provided, all or part
of the threads used to produce the article may be optionally pretensioned
elastic threads.
During the knitting of the article it is possible to perform, in a per se
known manner, particular types of knitting and/or patterns suitable to
further improve the aesthetic appearance of the product.
In practic;e it has been found that the method according to the
invention fully achieves the intended aim, since it allows to produce, with a
circular knitting; machine, articles for forming items such as body suits,
sleeveless tops, undershirts, bras, underpants or the like, without lateral
seams and with pouch-like regions that are fully satisfactory from an
aesthetic standpoint and as regards fit.
The method thus conceived is susceptible of numerous modifications
and variations, all of which are within the scope of the appended claims; all
the details may further be replaced with other technically equivalent
elements.
In practice, the materials used, as well as the dimensions, may be any
according to requirements and to tlic state of the art.
The disclosures in Italian Patent AppUcation No. MI2003A001369 from
which this application claims priority are incorporated herein by reference.
WE CLAIM
1. A method for manufacturing knitted articles for forming items of
cfothing, such as body suits, sleeveless tops, undershirts, bras, underpants or
the like, without lateral seams, with a circular knitting machine, comprising
a step for forming at least one pouch-like region (13a, 13b,23a,23b,25a,25b)
in which part of the needles or all the needles that belong to at least one
sector of the needle cylinder are moved to knit at at least one feed of the
machine b\ actuating the needle cylinder of the machine with an alternating
rotary motion about the axis thereof and with an extent of oscillation that is
sufficient to make transiting, at said at least one feed, all the needles of said
at least one sector that are mo\ed for knittins at said at least one feed, in
order to form, with the needles that belong to said at least one sector and are
moved for knitting, a number of rows of knitting in excess with respect to
the number of rows of knitting formed by the needles that are contiguous to
said at least one sector, characterized in that said step for forming at least
one pouch-like region (13a,13b,23a,23b,25a.25b) comprises the
simultaneous production of at least two pouch-like regions, in which
needles belonging to at least two sectors of the needle c_\linder thai are
angularK spaced from each other around the axis of the needle c>linder are
mo\'ed so as to knit at a different feed for each one of said sectors and the
needle cylinder is actuated with an alternating rotar\ motion about its own
axis with an oscillation extent that produces the transit, in from of the
corresponding feed, of all the needles of the correlated sector that are mo\ed
so as to knit in order to form, with the needles that belong to said at least
two sectors and are moved so as to knit at the corresponding feeds. ro\\s of
knitting in excess with respect to the rows of knitting formed, during said
step for forming the pouch-like regions, b\' the needles that are contiguous
to said at least two sectors.. . '
2. The method -according-~trrclaim 1, wherein during said step for
forming pouch-like regions (13a,13b,23a,23b,25a,25b), rows of knitiing are

also formed bs making all or part of the needles distributed along the entire
circumferential extension of the needle cylinder knit at said at least one
3. The method according to claim 1, wherein during said step for
forming pouch-like regions (13a,13b,23a,23b,25a,25b) the number of
needles that belong to said at least one sector and are moved to knit at the
corresponding feed is increased gradually.
4. The method according te claim 1, wherein during said step for
forming at least one pouch-like region (13a,13b,23a,23b,25a,25b) the
number of needles that belong to said at least one sector and are mo\ed to
knit at the corresponding feed is decreased gradually.
5. The method-according to-one or more of the preceding claims.
wherein during said step for forming at least one pouch-like region
(13a, 13b,23a.23b,25a,25b) the number of needles that belong to said at least
one sector and are moved so as to knit at the corresponding feed is first
increased gradually and then decreased gradually.
6. The method according to-one or more of the preceding claims.
wherein during said step for forming pouch-like legions
(13a, 13b.23a.23b,25a,25b) the number of needles that belong to said at least
one sector and are moved to knit at the cotTesponding feed is first deci^eased
gradual!} and then increased gradually.
7. The method according to-one or more of the preceding claims.
wherein during said step for forming pouch-like regions
(13a, 13b.23a,23b,25a,25b) the number of needles that belong to said at least
one sector and are moved to knit at the corresponding feed is first decreased
gradually, retaining the last formed loop of knitting in the hook of the
needles that are gradually excluded from knitting, and is then increased
gradually b\ resuming knitting also with the needles previously graduall>
excluded from knitting that had retained in their hook the last formed loop
of knittinii.
8. The method as claimed in one or more of the preceding claims,
wherein before said step for forming pouch-like regions
(13a,13b.23a.23b.25a,25b), a step for forming at least one tubular portion of
knitting is performed by moving so as to knit, at at least one feed or drop of
the machine, all the needles or part of the needles of the needle cylinder
distributed along the entire circumferential extension of the needle cylinder,
and the needle cylinder is actuated with a continuous rotar\ motion about its
own axis.
9. The method as claimed in one or more of the preceding claims,
wherein after said step for fonning at least one pouch-like region
( 13a, 13b,23a,23b,25a,25b), a step for forming at least one tubular portion of
knitting is performed by moving so as to knit, at at least one feed or drop of
the machine, all the needles or part of the needles of the needle cylinder
distributed along the entire circumferential extension of the needle cylinder,
and the needle cylinder is actuated with a continuous rotary motion about its
own axis.
10. The method as claimed in one or more of the preceding claims,
wherein at least part of said tubular portion of knitting (12) is produced as a
double folded border.

A method for manufacturing knitted
articles for forming items of clothing, such as body suits,
sleeveless lops, undershirts, bras, underpants or the like,
without lateral seams, with a circular knitting machine,
comprising a step for forming at least one pouch-like
region (13a, 13b, 23a, 23b, 25a, 25b), in which part of the
needles or all the needles that belong to at least one sector
of the needle cylinder are moved to knit at at least one
feed of the machine by actuating the needle cylinder of
the machine with an alternating rotary motion about its
axis and with an extent of oscillation that is sufficient to
produce the transit, at the feed, of all the needles of the
sector that are moved so as to knit at the feed, in order
to form, with the needles that belong to the sector and
are moved so as to knit, a number of rows of knitting
in excess with respect to the number of rows of knitting
formed by the needles that are contiguous to the sector.

Documents:

02533-kolnp-2005-abstract.pdf

02533-kolnp-2005-claims.pdf

02533-kolnp-2005-description complete.pdf

02533-kolnp-2005-drawings.pdf

02533-kolnp-2005-form 1.pdf

02533-kolnp-2005-form 2.pdf

02533-kolnp-2005-form 3.pdf

02533-kolnp-2005-form 5.pdf

02533-kolnp-2005-international publication.pdf

2533-kolnp-2005-granted-abstract.pdf

2533-kolnp-2005-granted-claims.pdf

2533-kolnp-2005-granted-correspondence.pdf

2533-kolnp-2005-granted-description (complete).pdf

2533-kolnp-2005-granted-drawings.pdf

2533-kolnp-2005-granted-examination report.pdf

2533-kolnp-2005-granted-form 1.pdf

2533-kolnp-2005-granted-form 18.pdf

2533-kolnp-2005-granted-form 2.pdf

2533-kolnp-2005-granted-form 26.pdf

2533-kolnp-2005-granted-form 3.pdf

2533-kolnp-2005-granted-form 5.pdf

2533-kolnp-2005-granted-reply to examination report.pdf

2533-kolnp-2005-granted-specification.pdf

2533-kolnp-2005-granted-translated copy of priority document.pdf

abstract-02533-kolnp-2005.jpg

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Patent Number

239051

Indian Patent Application Number

2533/KOLNP/2005

PG Journal Number

10/2010

Publication Date

05-Mar-2010

Grant Date

03-Mar-2010

Date of Filing

08-Dec-2005

Name of Patentee

SANTONI, S.P.A.

Applicant Address

VIA C. FENZI, 14, I-25135 BRESCIA

Inventors:

#	Inventor's Name	Inventor's Address
1	FAUSTO LONATI	VIA MEDIANA, 15 25128 BRESCIA
2	ETTORE LONATI	PIAZZA PAGANORA, 5 25121 BRESCIA
3	TIBERIO LONATI	VIA SERA, 24 25121 BRESCIA

PCT International Classification Number

D04B 1/24

PCT International Application Number

PCT/EP2004/006730

PCT International Filing date

2004-06-22

PCT Conventions:

#	PCT Application Number	Date of Convention	Priority Country
1	MI 2003 A 001369	2003-07-03	Italy