Title of Invention

COSMETIC FORMULATION FOR LIPSTICS, EYE SHADOW, AND ROGUES WITH NATURAL INGREDIENTS

Abstract

The present invention describes the preparations of lakes and their use in formulation of coloured cosmetic products like lipstick, eye shadows, rouge, face powders. The natural colourant lakes are prepared from the colour extract of root bark of Onosma echioides family Boraginaceae and bhasma like Shankh and Abhrakh. Lipstick prepared from the lake has enhanced leaching property. The composition is natural and various shades are obtained by varying ratio of colour extract and Bhasma, and also by using more than one bhasma. Various shades from red, pink, purple, violet, blue and their light and dark shades are obtained. These coloured cosmetic products are safe and eco-friendly.

Full Text

FORM 2 THE PATENTS ACT 1970 (39 of 1970) AND PATENT RULES 2003 COMPLETE SPECIFICATION (See Section 10 rule 13) TITLE OF THE INVENTION Cosmetic Formulation With Natural Ingredients APPLICANTS Name Dr.(Ms) Gadgoli Chhaya Harihar Ms. Thurackal Jeeja George Nationality Indian Address Sankara Nagar, Kalyan-Shill Road, Sonarpada,. Dombivali (East), 421 203 , Maharashtra State, INDIA The following specification particularly describes the invention and the manner in which it is to be performed: - This invention relates to coloured cosmetic preparation like lipsticks, eyeshadows and rouges containing natural colour along with natural wax, natural oil. The materials used in these preparations and particularly those used in the present invention are Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS), eco-friendly and health-protective and safely used in Ayurvedic medicaments for internal consumption. The colour used in these preparations is mentioned in Materia Medica (Nadkarni and Nadkarni, Vol. One, Popular Publications, Bombay, 1996, Pg 871.). The bruised roots of this plants are useful in skin eruptions. Background and Prior Art: There is a paradigm shift from synthetic to natural cosmetics in which maximum efforts are for incorporation of ingredients of natural origin. Many synthetic colours have been found to be carcinogenic and therefore banned from manufacture and use. fhttp://www.orst.edu/foodresource/color/colorents/.htmn Thus many natural colours are being used in coloured cosmetic formulations. Some such well known natural colours are Chlorophyll, Carrot (Daucus carota), Annatto or Bixin (Bixa orellana), Turmeric (Curcuma longa), Indigo (Indigofera tinctoria), Saffron [Crocus sativus), Red sandal wood (Pterocarpus santalinum), Patang (Caesalpinia sappan) and many more plants. All these colours are from various parts of the plants like the leaves, flowers, and roots of the plants, the present trend is to obtain these colours from organically grown plants without use of any synthetic fertiliser and/or pesticide. Though the colours for cosmetic applications have to be safe for external applications, the lipstick colours need to be safe for consumption also They should be like food colours. These colours are generally oil soluble and extracted from the different parts of the plants by lipid solvents. Many such extracts are commercially available. The shades of these colours are generally not stable and they change with acid, alkali and oxidation. Natural antioxidants protect them to some extent, but usually additional antioxidants are required to maintain the shades of the extracted colours. Some colours useful for cosmetic applications are obtained 2 from Arnebia nobiiis. [ Y. N. Shukla et at., Phytochemistry, 1971, 10, pp 1909 -1915] The chromophore structure in these colours is reported as 1,4-napthaquinones, Similarly, there are other plants from Boraginaceae family plants which give 1,4-naphthoquinone structures. [ Sayyada Khatoon and Shanta Mehrotra, Natural Product Sciences, 1996 2(2) pp 75 - 85] US. Patent Application 20020187115 A1 describes cosmetic compositions containing herbal colours from plants of the family Boraginaceae and essential oils. It describes lipsticks of different shades obtained from herbal colours by the use of organic and inorganic acids and bases on the colour concentrates isolated from the plants belonging to Boraginaceae. Lipsticks with various essential oils have been shown to be useful as a medium of aromatherapy. Lipsticks prepared by these colours are not effective in showing colour on the lips in the normal process of applying lipsticks on the lips. They need to be rubbed number of times to get the desired intensity of the colour. In the jargon of the lipsticks, such a lipstick is said to have lower leaching property. Object: The principal object of the present invention is to enhance the leaching properties of the lipsticks and other products like eye shadows, rouges, prepared from natural colours keeping the safety of the product uppermost in the mind. Another object of the present invention is to find a different treatment for such natural colours to obtain different shades of the natural colours without using acid or base treatments so that the colour shades obtained will be stable and lipsticks made with such colours will have better leaching property. Summary: 1. Accordingly, the present invention provides an eco-friendly, health protective and safe colour lake having enhanced leaching property comprising Abhrakh bhasma and /or Sankh bhasma and colour extract of 3 root bark of Onosma echioides, family Boraginaceae in the weight ratio of said bhasma expressed as Al+3 and / or Ca+2 ions to said colour extract represented by the major colour compound in the extract is 1:0.1 to 10:5 This lake has been prepared as follows: i. preparation of colour extract from the powdered dried root bark of Onosma echioides, family Boraginaceae by extracting with lipid solvents, ii. mixing the extract obtained in step 1 with a bhasma selected from the abhrakh and / or shankh bhasmas, using a vehicle comprising of any lipid solvent and then removing the lipid solvent under vacuum to obtain the lake in the powder form. In another embodiment of the present invention, a colour cosmetic composition having enhanced property has been made. It comprises wax, oil, antioxidants opacifiers, flavour and the colour lake. The colour lake used in the composition is about 1 - 90 in 3000 by wt. Description of the invention Colour The colour used in the present invention is mainly obtained from the powdered dried root bark of Onosma echioides, family Boraginaceae by extracting with lipid solvents. This is geographically grown in India and it is well known by local people as "Ratanjyof or "Laljari" It contains about 1%w/w of Alkamine, 1,4-napthaquinone which is said to be useful for curing skin eruptions. Lakes are prepared by complexing colour molecules with metals elements or their salts such as oxides. Bhasmas are Ayurvedic preparations in which pure metal is treated with certain Ayurvedic decoctions and then heated to high temperature to burn the metal in a closed cupola / crucible. The mineral ash that remains behind is called Bhasma of that metal. Such bhasmas have been reported to have Ayurvedic medical properties. These mineral ash preparations 4 are taken internally and are recognised as safe. Bhasma preparations are taken internally as antiperiodic, carminative, analgesic and are indicated in colic, flatulence etc. Shankh bhasma is generally prepared from Conch Shell along with the treatment of decoctions of drugs such as Ghruta kumari (aloevera) followed by heating. It has pharmacological action as antiperiodic, carminative, analgesic, indicated in colic, flatulence. It is a white powder and is rich in Calcium. The major source of Abhrakh bhasma is Mica [K2O-Al2O3SiO2] It is generally prepared by treating mica with different types of herbal extracts like trifala quath. The treatment is followed by heating. It is used for treatment of different diseases like chronic asthma, old age debility and stimulates the vasomotor apparatus. It is available in different colours like pale blue, pale yellow, pale red, white and black. Similarly there are Tamra (copper) bhasma, Vang ( tin) bhasma, Suvarna ( Gold) bhasma, Rajat ( silver) bhasma, Loha ( iron) bhasma, Yashadam (zinc) bhasma, Nag (lead) bhasma, similarly metal alloy bhasmas like Pittalam (brass) bhasma, Kansyam ( Bronze) bhasma, are also useful in making lakes with various chromophores of the natural colours obtained from plants.. To the knowledge of the applicants there is no preparation of lakes using bhasma. No body has made any lipstick formulation using lakes prepared by using bhasma. The compositions made by using these lakes have reduced toxicity of Onosma echioides colour. The use of different bhasmas individually and in combination give different colours as well as a variety of shades of each colour. The use of bhasma in the lipstick formulation has enhanced the leaching property of the natural colour. 5 Cosmetically acceptable base Normally any cosmetically acceptable base is useful in making the compositions of the present invention. This is because the main objectionable material in colour products is usually the colour itself. However, to make the products very safe in all respects the base chosen for the present invention are the ingredients of natural origin. • An eco-friendly, health protective and safe cosmetic composition having enhanced leaching property comprising extract of root bark Onosma echioides family Boraginaceae as colour where Abhrakh and Sankh bhasma used for lake preparation and naturally acceptabe base. • Colour extracted from the root bark of Onosma echioides family Boraginaceae using non-polar organic solvent. • The colour being lipophilic leaching property is diminished which results into the use large amount of extract to get the required shade. • The lake of the colour has been prepared using bhasma utilised in Ayurvedic medicine. • Utility of bhasma not only forms this lake but also has the ability to tailor shades in the different concentration. • Economical ingredients like Sunflower wax, Rice bran wax as against the Beeswax is utilised in the formulation. Examples : The invention will now be illustrated by way of examples. The examples are by way of illustration only and in no way restrict the scope of the invention. The colour required was prepared from the root bark of the authenticated sample of O. echioides (Boraginaceae). 6 Bhasma Following two bhasmas were used in the following examples for the preparation of lakes: Shankha Bhasma was obtained from Shree Baidyanath Ayurved Bhawan PVT.LTD.; Nagpur. It is generally prepared from conch shell with treatment of Ghruta kumari (aloevera) quath before heating to ash by Ayurvedic process. Shankh Bhasma is white in colour, amorphous and water insoluble. It gives effervenscence when treated with acids. The analysis of Sankh bhasma by flame photometry showed 48.5%w/w of Ca+2 Abhrakh Bhasma was obtained from Shree Baidyanath Ayurved Bhawan PVT.LTD.; Nagpur. It is generally prepared by treating mica with different types of herbal extracts like trifala quath, and before heating to ash by Ayurvedic process. Abhrakh bhasma is pale red in colour, amorphous and water insoluble. The analysis of Abhrakh bhasma by complexometry showed 27%w/w of Al+3. Materials used in the following examples were Cosmetically accepted base - wax - Sunflower wax (Foods, Fats & Fertilizers; Mumbai) - oils - Castor oil (Alpha Laboratory Chemicals; Mumbai) and Rice bran oil (Foods, Fats & Fertilizers; Mumbai) - flavour - Mixed fruit flavour (Keva flavours; Mumbai) Antioxidants : Natural antioxidant (Vitamin E ) Tocopherol acetate used in these examples were obtained from Merck; Goa. Butylated hydroxy acetate (BHA), Butylated hydroxy toluene (BHT), Proplyene glycol can also be used as antioxidants. 7 Example I: Preparation of Colour Extract of O. echioides The dried root bark of Indian Geographical origin species of Onosma echioides family Boraginaceae authenticated from Agharkar Research Institute, Pune, was coarsely powdered and then subjected the powder to soxhlet extraction using Petroleum ether (60-80°C) at a temperature of 80-90°C for 12-16 hours. The extract was filtered and concentrated at ambient condition and then non-polar solvent evaporated in vacuum oven at 15 mmHg at temperature of 40 °C. The colour is lipid soluble with Molar extinction coefficient, 152 at^max520 nm. Example II: Isolation of major colour compound from the extract The Petroleum ether (60-80°C) extract prepared in the above mentioned Example I was chromatographed on Silica gel for Column chromatography (60-120 mesh) and eluting the major colour component with Toluene : Formic acid (99:1). The eluents were then evaluated by TLC using precoated TLC plates (Merck) with Toluene : Formic acid (99:1) as mobile phase. The eluents indicating single spot with Rf 0.4 were pooled together and dried under vacuum to get the isolated colour compound. Example III: Preparation of natural lake 2.8 gm extract as described in Example I, equivalent to 1.68 gm of isolated major colour compound dissolved in pet.ether (60-80°C) by stirring with the aid of overhead stirrer. After the extract gets dissolved completely, to the solution, 20 gm Abhrakh bhasma equivalent to Al+3 5.4 gm was added slowly and continued stirring for 15-20 minutes. The resulting suspension was then concentrated under vacuum at 15 mmHg and temperature of 40°C to get free flowing powder. The natural lake formed is passed through 120 mesh sieve. The lake thus formed is red coloured with Molar extinction coefficient , 163 at 520nm. 8 Example IV 6.6 gm extract as described in Example I, equivalent to 3.96 gm of isolated major colour compound dissolved in pet.ether (60-80°C) by stirring with the aid of overhead stirrer. After the extract gets dissolved completely, to the solution 20 gm Shankh bhasma equivalent to 9.7gm of Ca+2 was added slowly and continued stirring for 15-20 minutes. The resulting suspension was then concentrated under vacuum at 15 mmHg and temperature of 40°C to get free flowing powder. The natural lake formed is passed through 120 mesh sieve. The lake thus formed is blue coloured with Molar extinction coefficient , 376 at 605nm. Example V 0.240 gm of natural lake prepared with Shankh bhasma as described in Example IV mixed with 25ml Castor oil. The said mixture was kept in a waterbath maintained at 80°C. To this 7.50gm of molten sunflower wax was added at 80°C. The additives like antioxidant viz., 0.5ml of tocopherol and flavour viz., 0.5ml of Mix fruit flavour were added to said mixture. The mixture was then poured into pre-cooled mould and it was allowed to set. After cooling the formulation was released from mould to make it suitable for application. Example VI 0.240 gm of natural lake prepared with Shankh bhasma as described in Example IV alongwith 0.250 gm of Titanium dioxide mixed with 25ml Castor oil. The said mixture was kept in a waterbath maintained at 80°C. To this 7.50gm of molten sunflower wax was added at 80°C. The additives like antioxidant viz., 0.5ml of tocopherol and flavour viz., 0.5ml of Mix fruit. flavour were added to said mixture. The mixture was then poured into pre- 9 cooled mould and it was allowed to set. After cooling the formulation was released from mould to make it suitable for application. Example VII 0.240 gm of natural lake prepared with Abhrakh bhasma as described in Example III mixed with 25ml Castor oil. The said mixture was kept in a waterbath maintained at 80°C. To this 7.50gm of molten sunflower wax was added at 80°C. The additives like antioxidant viz., 0.5ml of tocopherol and flavour viz., 0.5ml of Mix fruit flavour were added to said mixture. The mixture was then poured into pre-cooled mould and it was allowed to set. After cooling the formulation was released from mould to make it suitable for application. Example VIII 0.240 gm of natural lake prepared with Abhrakh bhasma as described in Example III alongwith 0.250 gm of Titanium dioxide mixed with 25ml Castor oil. The said mixture was kept in a waterbath maintained at 80°C. To this 7.50gm of molten sunflower wax was added at 80°C. The additives like antioxidant viz., 0.5ml of tocopherol and flavour viz., 0.5ml of Mix fruit flavour were added to said mixture. The mixture was then poured into pre-cooled mould and it was allowed to set. After cooling the formulation was released from mould to make it suitable for application. Example IX 0.120 gm of natural lake prepared with Shankh bhasma as described in Example IV and 0.120 gm of natural lake prepared with Abhrakh bhasma as described in Example III mixed with 25ml Castor oil. The said mixture was kept in a waterbath maintained at 80°C. To this 7.50gm of molten sunflower wax was added at 80°C. The additives like antioxidant viz., 0.5ml of tocopherol and flavour viz., 0.5ml of Mix fruit flavour were added to said 10 mixture. The mixture was then poured into pre-cooled mould and it was allowed to set. After cooling the formulation was released from mould to make it suitable for application. Example X 0.120 gm of natural lake prepared with Shankh bhasma as described in Example IV and 0.120 gm of natural lake prepared with Abhrakh bhasma as described in Example III alongwith Titanium dioxide mixed with 25ml Castor oil. The said mixture was kept in a waterbath maintained at 80°C. To this 7.50gm of molten sunflower wax was added at 80°C. The additives like antioxidant viz., 0.5ml of tocopherol and flavour viz., 0.5ml of Mix fruit flavour were added to said mixture. The mixture was then poured into pre-cooled mould and it was allowed to set. After cooling the formulation was released from mould to make it suitable for application. Example XI 0.240 gm of natural lake prepared with Abhrakh bhasma as described in Example III with 20ml Castor oil. The said mixture was kept in a waterbath maintained at 80°C. Molten sunflower wax 2.5 gm was mixed with the said mixture at 80°C. 20 gm Talc was mixed uniformly with molten mass by trituration. Antioxidant, 0.5ml tocopherol added to said mixture. Then the mixture was cooled to room temperature to make it suitable for application. Example XII 0.240 gm of natural lake prepared with Shankh bhasma as described in Example IV with 20ml Castor oil. The said mixture was kept in a waterbath maintained at 80°C. Molten sunflower wax. 2.5 gm was mixed with the said mixture at 80°C. 20 gm Talc was mixed uniformly with molten mass by 11 trituration. Antioxidant, 0.5ml tocopherol added to said mixture. Then the mixture was cooled to room temperature to make it suitable for application. Example XIII 0.240 gm of natural lake prepared with Abhrakh bhasma as described in Example III mixed with 0.5ml of Rice bran oil. The said mixture was mixed with molten sunflower wax in waterbath maintained at 80°C and to this molten mixture 20 gm Talc was mixed thoroughly and now preparation ready for application as rouges. Example XIV : Leaching Test Methodology Two lipstick preparations, sample A and sample B were applied five times on clean ,dry and white surface of tile and there photographs taken. Sample A with colour. 0.240 gm of colour prepared as described in Example I mixed with 25ml Castor oil. The said mixture was kept in a waterbath maintained at 80°C. Tothis7.50gm of molten sunflower wax was added at 80°C. The additives like antioxidant viz., 0.5ml of tocopherol and flavour viz., 0.5ml of Mix fruit flavour were added to said mixture. The mixture was then poured into pre-cooled mould and it was allowed to set. After cooling the formulation was released from mould to make it suitable for application. Sample B with colour lake prepared with Abhrakh Bhasma. 0.240 gm of natural lake prepared with Abhrakh bhasma as described in Example III mixed with 25ml Castor oil. The said mixture was kept in a waterbath maintained at 80°C. To this 7.50gm of molten sunflower wax was added at 80°C. The additives like antioxidant viz., 0.5ml of tocopherol and flavour viz., 0.5ml of Mix fruit flavour were added to said mixture. The mixture was then poured into pre-cooled mould and it was allowed to set. After cooling the formulation was released from mould to make it suitable for application. 12 Results The figures/ photographs attached show the difference in the colour leached on the surface of the slides on which Samples A and B are applied. It is clearly seen that The colour is leached in B better than that in sample A lipstick with colour alone and lipstick with the lake prepared using same concentration This example shows that the lipsticks made in Examples V, VI, VII, VIII, IX and X respectively have better leaching property than the products made with the colour without converting it into lake. Example XV Toxicity test Swiss Albino rats (150-200 gm ) of either sex maintained at standard conditions of housing, fed with standard pellet diet and water ad libitum were utilized for the toxicity testing. The animals were divided into control and test groups (Group-I, Group-ll and Group-Ill) containing six animals each. The extracts prepared as per Example I and lakes prepared as per Examples III and IV, were suspended in 5%w/v aqueous gum acacia mucilage. The control group received the vehicle (5%w/v aqueous gum acacia mucilage) while the test groups received graded doses of different the extract intraperitonially. Group-I received pet.ether extract of Onosma echioides (Boraginaceae) and Group-ll and III received the natural lakes prepared as per Examples III and IV respectively. The animals were observed for mortality till 48 hours. Results The Group-I showed 50% mortality while Control, Group-ll and Group-Ill showed no mortality. 13 Advantages of the invention: The colour lakes prepared are made from natural colour materials with bhasmas prepared by age old Ayurvedic processes which are generally recognized as safe. Lake colours are more stable than the colour shades obtained by acid base treated colours. The coloured cosmetic products made by using these lakes with natural cosmetically acceptable base have better leach enhancing property than those made without making any lake of the colour used. By proper selection of bhasma individual or in combination with other bhasmas proper shade manipulation of the colour shade is possible. 14 We claim: 1. A eco-friendly, health protective and safe colour lake having enhanced leaching property comprising colour extract of root bark of Onosma echioides family Boraginaceae; Abhrakh bhasma and / or Sankh bhasma in the weight ratio of said bhasma expressed as Al+3 and / or Ca+2 ions to said colour extract represented by the major colour compound in the extract is 1:0.1 to 1-0:5 2. A process for manufacturing eco-friendly, health protective and safe colour lake having enhanced leaching property comprising following steps: i. preparation of colour extract from the powdered dried root bark of Onosma echioides, family Boraginaceae by extracting with lipid solvents, ii. mixing the extract obtained in step 1 with a bhasma selected from said bhasmas, using a vehicle comprising of any lipid solvent and then removing the lipid solvent under vacuum to obtain powder of the lake. 3. A eco-friendly, health protective and safe colour cosmetic composition having enhanced leaching property. It comprises wax, oil, antioxidants opacifiers, flavour and the colour lake. The colour lake used in the composition is about 1 - 90 in 3000 by wt. 4. A eco-friendly, health protective and safe colour cosmetic composition enhanced leaching property as claimed in claim 2 wherein, said lake is based on Shankh Bhasma; cosmetically acceptable base comprises sunflower wax and castor oil; antioxidant and flavour suitable for application as lipstick. 15 5. A eco-friendly, health protective and safe colour cosmetic composition enhanced leaching property for eye-shadow as claimed in claim 2 wherein, said cosmetically acceptable base comprises lake using Abhrakh Bhasma sunflower wax and castor oil; antioxidant; and flavour. 6. A eco-friendly, health protective and safe colour cosmetic composition enhanced leaching property for rouge as claimed in claim 2 wherein, said cosmetically acceptable base comprises lake using Abhrakh Bhasma sunflower wax and castor oil antioxidant and flavour. 7. A eco-friendly, health protective and safe colour lake having enhanced leaching property and a process for its manufacture and a eco-friendly, health protective' and safe colour cosmetic composition having enhanced leaching property such as lipstick, eyeshadow, and rouge, substantially as herein described in the text and in the examples. 16 ABSTRACT The present invention describes the preparations of lakes and their use in formulation of coloured cosmetic products like lipstick, eye shadows, rouge, face powders. The natural colourant lakes are prepared from the colour extract of root bark of Onosma echioides family Boraginaceae and bhasma like Shankh and Abhrakh. Lipstick prepared from the lake has enhanced leaching property. The composition is natural and various shades are obtained by varying ratio of colour extract and Bhasma, and also by using more than one bhasma. Various shades from red, pink, purple, violet, blue and their light and dark shades are obtained. These coloured cosmetic products are safe and eco-friendly. 17

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