Title of Invention

METHOD AND SYSTEM FOR CHARACTERIZING TACTILE PERCEPTION OF SKIN

Abstract An acoustic emission system for objectively measuring tactile skin attributes and methods of using same are provided. The system includes: a means for generating an acoustic emission signal from skin; a means for collecting, storing and displaying said emission signal; and a means for correlating said emission signal with an attribute of said skin. The system is used as a clinical tool to evaluate efficacy of cosmetic skin care and/or cleansing products. A cosmetic product selection system is also provided which includes a cosmetic composition for reducing the appearance of undesirable skin attributes and an acoustic emission system associated with the composition. A method for assessing tactile skin attributes using an acoustic emission system, as well as of evaluating progress of the combat against the signs of undesirable skin attributes occurring over a period of time within which the composition is applied to an area of skin being monitored are also provided.
Full Text FORM - 2
THE PATENTS ACT, 1970
(39 of 1970)
&
The Patents Rules, 2003
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION
(See Section 10 and Rule 13)
METHOD AND SYSTEM FOR CHARACTERIZING TACTILE PERCEPTION
HINDUSTAN LEVER LIMITED, a company incorporated under the Indian Companies Act, 1913 and having its registered office at Hindustan Lever House, 165/166, Backbay Reclamation, Mumbai -400 020, Maharashtra, India
The following specification particularly describes the invention and the manner in which it is to be performed.

WO 2005/046474 PCT/EP2004/012751
- 1 -
METHOD AND SYSTEM FOR CHARACTERIZING TACTILE PERCEPTION
Field of the Invention
5
The invention concerns a method and system for characterizing
tactile perception on skin using acoustic emission, as well as
methods of using the system for demonstrating proof of efficacy
and/or facilitating cosmetic product selection.
10
Background of the Invention
The ultimate goal of any cosmetic product or method, is a satisfied consumer. Many cosmetic products, either leave-on
15 and/or wash off products, advertise a variety of skin benefits. While expert graders may be trained to use diagnostic equipment or to perceive the difference, consumers usually cannot easily discern whether the claimed benefit is actually delivered, or a quantitative extent to which it is delivered. Skin conditions are
20 typically evaluated subjectively through the senses, particularly through sight and touch. An objective measure of the physical parameters controlling the key attributes would provide a useful tool in the characterization of sensory attributes.
25 Amongr skin diagnostic techniques, acoustic emission has not been commonly used for skin characterization. Acoustic emission has been commonly used in the field of mechanical systems and musical instruments. It has also been used in the field of fabric sensory, since for consumers, the sound of fabrics is part of the
30 sensory experience.
Tanalca, M. et al., "The *Haptic Finger' - a new device for monitoring skin condition," Skin Research and Technology, 9:131-

WO 2005/046474 PCT/EP2004/012751
- 2 -
136 (2003) describe a device simulating a fingeur, formed of several layers of materials (stainless steel plate, sponge rubber, a piezopolymer film, acetate film and gauze) . This artificial finger is rubbed on skin as it records trie mechanical stresses generated in flexible piezopolymer films.
Flament, F., et al., "Finger perception metrology. Correlation between friction force and acoustic emission, " Abstract of a presentation at a skin conference in Hamburg, 2003, describe a method where the finger of a subject is held by a motorized support which moves the finger over a surface of materials where the friction force and the acoustic emission signals are detected.
15 WO 02/24071 A2 relates to a method, apparatus and. system for assessing hair condition by measuring friction in riair samples. A friction member, similar to a "comb" generates friction at the contact between the comb and the hair. The frictional noise generated by the forces during comb motion is captured by a
20 frictional noise sensor.
A need remains for a tool and method for the objective measurement of tactile attributes of human skin.

Printed: 30/09/2005 DESCPAMD 04797796
- 3
Summary of the Invention
Accordingly, Applicants have developed an acoustic emissions
system and method for objective assessment of skin condition before, during, and after application and/or wash-off of products onto or from skin. The acoustic emission measurement system includes:
(A) means for detecting an acoustic emission signal generated
10 from skin/skin contact;
(B) means for collecting, storing and displaying said emission signal; and
(C) means for correlating said emission signal with an attribute of the skin.
15
The inventive system and method can be used:
(1) as a clinical tool to evaluate the efficacy and/or tactile
perception on skin of cosmetic skin care and/or cleansing
20 products, i.e., from a clinical and/or consumer perspective;
(2) as a consumer communication tool to determine the degree of
change that is meaningful and ideal to the consumer, i.e.,
25 to define the distribution of skin attributes in a specific population and/or to set technical and consumer targets; or
(3) as a point of purchase diagnostic device to allow a
consumer a simple method to evaluate before and after
30 treatment changes in skin condition, thereby facilitating product screening and selection, product customization and/or compliance with a product usage regimen.

Printed: 30/09/2005

DESCPAMD

04797796

- 4 -
The system and method can be used by the consumer directly, but is preferably applied by a beautician, clinician, sales associate, or other professional adviser.
5 The very sensitive inventive method detects acoustic signals during touching to assess the in-use sensory performance of personal care products and extract specific sensory attributes or sensory profile. The system and method can be used to support claims about various benefits from skin care products, such as 10 moisturization, rinsability of cleansers and a wide range of sensory benefits (i.e smoothness, silkiness).
In another aspect of the present invention, the sensory attributes or profile can be linked to consumer language and/or
15 communicated to consumers. Communication media may include the Internet, camera, personal digital assistant (e.g., palm pilot™) , mobile phone; mobile camera phone, advertising and promotional material, including television, magazines, brochures, posters, flyers, and hand-outs; and/or water-insoluble substrate.
20
A cosmetic product system is provided which includes: (i) at least one cosmetic composition for reducing the appearance of at least one skin attribute; and (ii) an acoustic emission system associated with said cosmetic
25 composition;
the acoustic emission system having a means for evaluating current appearance of skin attributes or progress in reducing the appearance of said attributes with the use of said cosmetic composition.
30

WO 2005/046474 PCT/EP2004/012751
- 5 -
Further, there is provided a method for evaluating attributes on an area of skin and/or the efficacy of a cosmetic product for reducing the appearance of an attribute, including:
5 (A) providing an acoustic emission system;
(B) applying the cosmetic product to an area of skin;
10
(C) generating acoustic emission data for said area of skin;
(D) analyzing said data to assess said skin attributes; and
(E) repeating steps (C) and (D) at a future time followed, by
comparison of data resultant from first and second
assessments of the skin.
Brief Description of the Drawings
Although not limited thereto, additional objects, features and benefits of the present invention will become more readily apparent from consideration of the drawings in which:
Fig.l is a schematic diagram of an acoustic emission system according to the present invention;
25
Fig. 2 shows acoustic profiles of sodium PEG lauryl ether sulphate (SLES) /water solution at three different concentrations (2A = 1% w/w; 2B = 0.2% w/w; and 2C = 0.01% w/w), generated using the system of FIG. 1;
30
Fig. 3 shows an acoustic profile of a wash-off (cleansing) product obtained with the system of FIG. 1, wherein a hydrophone and accelerometers are used simultaneously;

WO 2005/046474 PCT/EP2004/012751
- 6 -
Fig. 4 shows acoustic profiles of two different cleansing products (products A and B) obtained using the same system as that used to generate PIG. 3, wherein 4A and 4B are the acoustic signals (sound pressure and acceleration, respectively) from product A; 4C and 4D are acoustic signals (sound pressure and acceleration, respectively) from product B;
Fig. 5 shows acceleration signals of rubbing on a leave-on product over a time period of 9 minutes, obtained using the system of FIG. 1 wherein two accelerometers and two microphones are used;
Fig. 6. shows acceleration signals of two different products over
15 a certain time period of application, obtained using the same
system as that used to generate FIG. 5;
Fig. 7 shows acceleration signals of after-feel of two cleansing
products, with measurements taken after a period of towel drying,
20 wherein FIG. 7A shows the dry feel after using a harsh cleansing product;
and FIG. 7B shows the moisture feel after using a mild cleansing product.
Detailed Description of the Invention
25
Now consumers have been provided with a system and method that meets the need for objective assessment of skin and application and/or wash-off of products onto or from skin.
30 The present invention is based on a very sensitive method, which detects acoustic signals during touching to assess the in-use sensory performance of personal care products and extract specific sensory attributes or sensory profile, which can be

10

WO 2005/046474 PCT7EP2004/012751
- 7 -
linked to the consumer language and/or communicated to consumers. It can be used to support claims about various benefits from skin care products, such as moisturization, rinsability of cleansers and a wide range of sensory benefits (i.e smoothness, silkiness)
The inventive system and method can be used:
(1) as a clinical tool to evaluate the efficacy of cosmetic skin care and/or cleansing products, both from a clinical and consumer perspective;
(2) as a consumer communication tool to determine the degree of change that is meaningful and ideal to the consumer, i.e., to define the distribution of skin attributes in a specific population and/or to set technical and consumer targets; or

15
(3) as a point of purchase diagnostic device to allow a consumer a simple method to evaluate before and after treatment changes in skin condition, thereby supporting claims of product benefits and affecting/influencing
product selection, product customization and/or compliance with a product usage regimen.
ACOUSTIC EMISSION SYSTEM
25 With reference to FIG. 1, a schematic diagram of an acoustic emission system 10 according to the present invention is shown. Acoustic emission system 10 includes probe (s) 12 that operate in an acoustic medium to pick up a signal from sound or vibration generated by a substrate (not shown), such as biological tissues,
30 skin tissues, or hard surfaces. Probe(s) 12 are in communication with a signal conditioning and amplifying system 14, connected to a data acquisition system 16, which, in turn, is connected to a result storage, manipulation, and output system 18. A power

WO 2005/046474 PCT/EP2004/0127S1
- 8 -
source (not shown) is also provided for powering system components. Each of the individual components may be commercially available or custom built, and any of the components 14, 16, 18 may be combined or eliminated, such as, for example if analog signal is stored in that form, or if recording is directly to a tape recorder or CD or DVD.
Acoustic medium
10 The acoustic medium may be gas or liquid. Generally, in practice, the acoustic medium is air, water, or aqueous solution.
Acoustic probe(s)
15 System 10 has at least one acoustic sensor, or probe 12. Probe 12 may comprise at least one microphone 20, for gaseous medium, or at least one hydrophone 22, for aqueous medium. Microphone 20 and/or hydrophone 22 may be used individually, in combination with each other, and/or in combination with a vibration sensor,
20 or accelerometer 24. One or more accelerometers 24 may be used individually, in combination with each other, or in combination with at least one microphone 20 and/or hydrophone 22.
Signal Conditioning System
25
Signal conditioning system 14 is in communication with probe (s) 12 and may be comprised of at least one amplifier 26, 28 to amplify sound received by microphone 20 and/or hydrophone 22. A signal conditioner 30 is provided to manipulate signal received
30 from accelerometer 24.
Data acquisition system

WO 2005/046474 PCT/EP2004/012751
- 9 -
The data received by any one or more of amplifiers 26, 28 and/or accelerometer 24 is transferred to data acquisition system 16. In the alternative, data may be transferred to data acquisition system 16 directly from probe (s) 12.
5
Result storage, manipulation and output system
Data from data acquisition system 16 is transferred to result storage, manipulation and output system 18. In alternative embodiments, result storage, manipulation and output system 18 may receive data directly from probe (s) 12 and/or signal conditioning system 14.
System 18 may be a personal computer or similar digital data 15 storage medium, such as a hand-held device (e.g. personal digital
assistant [e.g., Palm Pilot™], cellular phone), magnetic tape,
CD, or DVD. At this point, the data may be represented in
graphical form and printed, in a variety of communication media.
Communication media may include the Internet, camera, personal 20 digital assistant (e.g. Palm Pilot™), mobile phone; mobile
camera phone, advertising and promotional material, including
television, magazines, brochures, posters, flyers, and hand-outs;
and/or water-insoluble substrate. Additionally, correlations
between skin condition as data received qualitatively from
25 consumers and data received from acoustic emission system 10 may
be made and/or may reside within the result storage, manipulation
and output system 18.
System 10 and method can be used to support claims about various
30 benefits from skin care products, such as moisturization,
rinsability of cleansers and a wide range of sensory benefits
(i.e smoothness, silkiness) .

WO 2005/046474 PCT/EP2004/012751
- 10 -
ACOUSTIC EMISSION METHOD
The inventive method uses acoustic signals generated from contact with a substrate, preferably skin, when the skin on one area of the human body slides on the skin of another area of the body, i.e., skin on skin. The frictional forces in the skin/skin contact generate vibration patterns that are sensed by probe (s) 12 placed near the skin/skin contact area and recorded by result storage, manipulation, and output system 18. Advantageously,
10 probe (s) 12 do not affect the contact between one area of skin and another area of skin, since it can detect vibrations near the contact area without interfering with the contact. Therefore according to the present invention, the acoustic signal reflects accurately the skin/skin contact properties and the in-use
15 conditions.
Acoustic emission is recorded during the gentle rub of the hand or finger on another skin part. It is typically detected on the forearm, the hand or the face, but could also be used for other
20 body parts. The acoustic emission signals can be recorded by several kinds of probe (s) 12. Microphones 20 or hydrophones 22 can be mounted close to the skin/skin contact, but do not touch the skin. For these acoustic sensors, air or water, respectively, is the medium, or the vehicle, of the vibration produced on the
25 skin. Small or miniature vibration sensors (i.e. accelerometers 24) can be mounted to the skin, near the area of contact. In that case, the vibrations generated by the rubbing are transmitted by the skin tissues. Acoustic sensors may be commercially available devices or custom made devices. The acoustic emission signal is
30 conditioned and/or amplified, by amplifiers 26, 28 and/or signal conditioner 30, respectively, and sent to data acquisition system 16. Data from data acquisition system 16 is then sent to storage, manipulation, and output system 18, such as a PC sound card or

WO 2005/046474 PCT/EP2004/012751
- 11 -
other appropriate digitizing device where sound emission data may be saved and displayed. Various standard signal analysis methods can be applied to the signal, and custom methods may be developed.
5
In typical use, the hand rubs the forearm in a regular manner or the two fingers are rubbed on each other. Since the acoustic emission depends on the speed of the rubbing and the pressure at the skin/skin contact, several recordings are performed for a
10 given subject in order to define a control vibration pattern. The root mean square of the signal recorded over a given period, of time can be used to assess the consistency of the rubbing process. The acoustic emission signals are then monitored during the application of products or at intermittent intervals after
15 application of a product.
Signal Analysis
Applicants have found that the amplitude of the vibrations and 20 the frequency content of the acoustic signal, or waves, monitored
as a function of time are very sensitive to the change of the
skin/skin contact properties associated with the use of products.
The signal wave can be associated with, or correlated with,
particular sensory properties. For example, analysis of these 25 signals allows to characterize the rinsability and "feel" or
tactile perception of skin cleansers, the tactile feel after use
of cleansers, and the tactile feel resulting from the application
of cosmetic creams. Acoustic signal wave analysis can also be
used to detect the deposition of moisturizing agents from 30
cosmetic products and cleansers.

WO 2005/046474 PCT/EP2004/012751
- 12 -
COSMETIC PRODUCT SYSTEM
A cosmetic product system is also provided according to the present invention, including a cosmetic composition associated with acoustic emission system 10.
One aspect of the present invention provides a cosmetic product system wherein a cosmetic composition is packaged with an acoustic emission system 10 in whole or in part, such as with a
10 typical acoustic graph. A variety of packaging arrangements are envisioned. An acoustic graph may be incorporated as a panel segment of a carton, the latter protectively surrounding the cosmetic composition. In a variation thereof, the graph may be detachably joined to the package through a perforated or weakened
15 construction line, or through an adhesive joinder. In another
embodiment, the exterior or interior of the package may be
imprinted with instructions for a consumer to sample the product
with acoustic emission system 10 located at the point of
purchase.
20
Cosmetic Compositions
Cosmetic compositions, such as for reducing the appearance of facial skin pores, wrinkles or other undesired facial attributes,
25 may be in the form of creams, lotions, toners, pastes, sticks
(e.g. lipsticks), or powders. These cosmetics normally will
include a carrier. Suitable carriers include water, emollients
(esters, hydrocarbons, silicones, polyols and mixtures thereof),
emulsifiers, thickeners and combinations thereof. Most often the
30 carrier will be an emulsion such as an oil-in-water or water-in-oil type. Amounts of the carrier may range from about 1 to about 99.9% by weight.

WO 2005/046474 PCT/EP2004/012751
- 13 -
Pore reduction active or agents for reducing the appearance of
pores may include: astringents, humectants, acne and sebum
suppressants, desquamation enhancers, keratolytics, and make-up,
among other pore reduction actives known to one skilled in the
5 art.
Astringents
Examples of astringents include, but are not limited to, ethanol,
10 witch hazel, zinc and aluminum salts, and polyphenols.
Humectants
Humectants include propylene glycol (available from Spectrum),
15 glycerol, and sorbitol, among other humectants known to one
skilled in the art. Humectants are known as excellent
moisturizers for skin, scalp and hair. See for instance U.S.
Patent No. 5,858,340, incorporated by reference herein.
20 Acne and Sebum suppressants
Anti-acne actives include benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid,
among other anti-acne agents known to one skilled in the art.
Sebum suppressants include compounds of the general formula A:
25 R-O-M (A)
wherein:
R is a branched alkyl or alkenyl chain having at least 7
carbon atoms, and at least two branches;
0 is an oxygen atom; and
30 M is (-(CH2)P0)a-(CH2)n£02X)
where n is 0 or an integer between 1 and 7, m is an integer between 1 and 4, p is an integer between 2 and 4; and X is hydrogen, a methyl group, an ethyl group, or a cation. The cation

WO 2005/046474 PCT/EP2004/012751
- 14 -
is selected from the group consisting of sodium, lithium, potassium, calcium, copper, magnesium, manganese, strontium, sulfur, zinc, and amine cations. Preferably, X is hydrogen or a cation.
5
Make-up
Examples of make-up useful for reducing the appearance of pores
include foundations, moisturizers, fearners, and concealers, among 10 other make-ups known to one skilled in the art.
Anti-aging actives may include retinoids, ceramides, alpha or beta-hydroxycarboxylic acids, flavonoids, vitamins, sunscreens, anti-oxidants, preservatives and mixtures thereof.
15
Typical retinoids include retinol, retinoic acid and retinol esters. The latter include retinyl palmitate, retinyl linoleate, retinyl propionate, retinyl acetate and retinyl salicylate.
20 Alpha-hydroxy acids include the free acid, lactone and salt forms of glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, gluconolactone, glucarolactone, tartaric acid, malic acid and mixtures thereof. Beta-hydroxycarboxylic acids are exemplified by salicylic acid as well as its esters (e.g. tridecylsalicylate) and salts including
25 ammonium, alkanolammonium and alkalimetal salts.
Ceramides include Ceramide 1, Ceramide 2, Ceramide 3, Ceramide 3a, Ceramide 3b, Ceramide 4, Ceramide 5 and Ceramide 6, as well as pseudoceramides, phytosphingosines and tetraacetyl phytosphingos ine.
Other skin benefit agents may be included as optional components. Vitamins may include ascorbic acid as well as its water-soluble

WO 2005/046474 PCT/EP2004/012751
- 15 -
and water-insoluble derivatives. Illustrative are ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside. Other vitamins include Vitamin B3 (niacin, niacinamide and panthenol) , biotin, folic acid, tocopherol and
5 its esters (e.g. tocopherol isopalmitate, tocopherol acetate),
Vitamin D and combinations thereof.
Antioxidants include BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene), BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole), disodium EDTA (available from Ciba) ,
10 sodium citrate, hydroquinone, ferulic acid and esters thereof,
green tea extract, lipoic acid, N-acetyl cysteine, resveratrol
and combinations thereof.
Amounts of the pore or wrinkle reduction or other actives may 15 range anywhere from 0.0000001 to 30%, preferably from 0.0001 to
15%, more preferably from 0.1 to 5%, by weight.
METHODS OF USE
20 The system and method can be used by the consumer directly, but is preferably applied by a beautician or other professional adviser.
Specifically, the system may be used for determining the
25 condition of facial skin pre- and post-treatment, or to track
changes in facial attributes, associated with a variety of
factors, such as effects of food, activity, menstrual cycle. Pre-
treatment acoustic emission system measurements may be used in
selecting an appropriate cosmetic product. For example,
30 different product formulations may be recommended depending on
the individual skin condition as measured by the inventive
acoustic emission system 10 and method. Acoustic measurements may
be represented in a variety of media in association with skin

WO 2005/046474 PCT/EP2004/012751
- 16 -
care and/or cleansing products within the scope of the present invention.
Subsequent to a baseline analysis of facial attributes using 5
acoustic emission system 10 and method, treatment is begun with
a selected cosmetic product for the particular facial
attribute. Treatment is continued for a period of time
sufficient to allow the product to treat the signs of the
particular facial attribute.
10
After the treatment period of time, such as four weeks, another acoustic measurement is taken. Testing may occur thereafter at 6, 8, 12, 16 and/or 20 weeks. The time intervals and numbers may be longer or shorter. If the cosmetic product is properly
15 functioning, fewer and/or smaller undesirable facial attributes will appear upon acoustic evaluation. This procedure can then be repeated at intervals of six or eight weeks or at any further time interval.
20 The acoustic emission system 10 and method may be used in conjunction with a variety of media for displaying measurement results, including in or out of home use of the Internet, webcam, personal digital assistant [e.g, Palm Pilot™] , mobile phone, and other media capable of displaying the results in graphical,
25 quantitative, and/or qualitative terms. A strip embodying such result may be given out to consumers at point of sale or at a store display.
An objective clinical grading scale, whereby each image is 30
associated with a number, may be developed.

WO 2005/046474 PCT/EP2004/012751
- 17 -
The term “comprising" is meant not to be limiting to any subsequently stated elements but rather to encompass non-specified elements of major or minor functional importance. In other words the listed steps, elements or options need not be exhaustive. Whenever the words * including" or “having" are used, these terms are meant to be equivalent to "comprising" as defined above.
All parts, percentages and proportions referred to herein and in
10 the appended claims are by weight unless otherwise illustrated.
In the following, several examples of application of the inventive system and method are described. The following is by way of example, not by way of limitation, of the principles of
15 the invention to illustrate the best itvode of carrying out the
invention.
EXAMPLE 1
20 This example uses acoustic emission measurements to characterize the tactile properties on skin of surfactants applied thereto, e.g. slimy, squeaky and slimy/squeaky transition evaluation, using acoustic emission measurements.
25 An acoustic emission system 10 as generally described with reference to FIG. 1 was used for testing squeakiness and its transition properties of surfactant solutions. One probe 12, i.e., hydrophone 22 (Bruel & Kjaer, Atlanta, GA, 8103 hydrophone), was mounted onto an inner wall of a container (not
30 shown) for surfactant property testing in aqueous solution. The
inner container wall may be machined with certain roughness in
order to reduce the reflection of sound waves from the container
wall. The charge signal frc conditioned to

WO 2005/046474 PCT/EP2004/012751
- 18 -
voltage signal via a Bruel & Kjae Conditioner anplifier 28. Clean fingers were rubbed against each other inside the surfactant solution while data acquisition system 16 (CcolEdit 2000 from Syntrillium Software Corporation, Phoenix, AZ) digitized the sound waves into storage, manipulation, and output system 18, i.e., a computer file.
Fig. 2 shows the sound profiles of a common surfactant used in
wash-off products, i.e., sodium PEG lauryl ether sulfate 10 (SLES)/water solution at different concentrations, generated
using the system of FIG. 1. The observations from these Figures
are:
2A 1% SLES/water solution shows very low sound level all the
time, indicating a slimy feel or tactile perception;
15 2B 0.2% SLES/water solution shows the sound level from high to
low as finger rubbing time goes on, indicating a transition from
squeaky to slimy feel at this concentration;
2C 0.01% SLES/water solution shows a very high sound level all
the time, indicating a squeaky feel that does not goes away with 20 time at this concentration.
The differences between these solutions are easily discernible from the results. For higher concentration (e.g. 1% SLES/water solution, Fig. 2A) , the SLES film covers the entire skin surface and lubricates the two skin surfaces against their touching. No significant sound can be produced by rubbing fingers (sound pressure is very low). The consumer perceives sliminess of the solution.
30 With reference to FIG. 2B, when the SLES concentration is lower
(e.g. 0.2%), the sound profile is strongly dependent on rubbing
time. In the beginning of rubbing, the sound level is very high,
corresponding to a "squeaky" feel. As the rubbing continues, the

WO 2005/046474 PCT/EP2004/012751
- 19 -
sound level gradually decreases and the consumer can also perceive that the squeakiness decreases. When the solution is perceived as slimy, almost no sound is emitted.
5 Below a certain SLES concentration (Fig. 2C) , the consumer can only feel squeakiness of solution no matter how long rubbing goes.
The results demonstrate a strong connection between the consumer
10 tactile perceptions and acoustic emission signals. Different
surfactant systems give different acoustic profiles, thereby
representing the different squeakiness/sliminess of those
surfactant systems. The acoustic method can be used for quickly
and simply evaluating surfactant systems for the tactile
15 perception they produce.
EXAMPLE 2
This example demonstrates an assessment of the rinse profile of 20 wash-off products, simultaneously using hydrophone 22 and
accelerometer 24.
With reference to FIG. 1, in this example, a typical set-up for assessment of wash-off (cleansing) products was used, employing
25 simultaneously hydrophone 22 and accelerometers 24. To characterize the rinsability and "feel" of skin cleansers, the acoustic emission signal can be detected by hydrophone 22 immersed in a tank filled with water (not shown) for rinsing an area of skin. Two accelerometers 24 were attached to the
30 subject's skin (PCB 352A24 accelerometer for normal vibration, and PCB 356A15 triaxial accelerometer for tangential and normal vibration) . A known amount of cleansers was applied on the wet forearm with the hand of an individual. The arm was then immersed

WO 2005/046474 PCT7EP2004/012751
- 20 -
into the rinse tank full of certain hardness water at
certain temperature. The other hand rubbed the arm with product
while the rubbing sound was picked up by hydrophone 22 and
skin vibration was detected by accelerometers 24, simultaneously. 5
The acoustic emission signal from hydrophone 22 was conditioned as in Example 1 and recorded by data acquisition system 16. Signals from accelerometers 24 were conditioned by PCB 442B104 signal conditioner 30 (PCB Piezotronics, Inc., Depew, NY).
10
Data from data acquisition system 16 was communicated to storage, manipulation, and output system 18, i.e., a Cool Edit 2000 with sound card digitizing system. In addition, a professional acoustic emission system (Bruel & Kjaer Pulse 6.1 and 7.0,
15 Atlanta, GA) was used.
A rinse profile of a wash-off product (TEA-N-Lauroyl L-Glutamate (LT-12)) in soft water (40 PPM, Ca++/MG++=3/l) thereby obtained is shown in FIG. 3. The figure illustrates how, during rinse, the
20 amplitude of the acoustic emission signal changes significantly. At first, because of the lubricating effect of the surfactants, the acoustic signal is very significantly reduced. The slimy region has no sound or very low sound level while the squeaky region has stronger sound level. As the rinse proceeds, much
25 higher amplitude "squeaky" sounds are produced. The speed of rinse of the cleansers can be assessed on the wave file by measuring the time period before the occurrence of high amplitude squeaky sound. The squeakiness of the cleansers can be assessed by measuring the average amplitude of the squeaky sound. In this
30 particular case, there is no acoustic emission signal from the first three rubs while consumer perceives the sliminess of the wash-off product. From the 4th rub to 10th rub, the acoustic emission signals are different at each rub, indicating the

WO 2005/046474 PCT/EP2004/012751
- 21 -
squeakiness changes during rinse. In the 5th and 6th rubs, the more uniform sound profile relates to the smooth feel. In the last several rubs, there are larger interrupts between sound emission spikes, which correlate to the stick/slip of skin surfaces. The consumers usually perceive clean rinse when they reach these rubs.
The whole acoustic profile shows the very rich information during rinse of wash-off products. The different squeakiness can be observed from the sound profile and can be further extracted by applying different data analysis methods (e.g. Fast-Fourier transform (FFT) can reveal the frequency of stick/slip which relates to the squeakiness) .
15 Moreover, the observed acoustic emission profile corresponds extremely well to the consumer's perceptions during rinse.
Fig. 4 shows two distinct rinse profiles obtained by rinse in soft water for two different products by acoustic methods using the combination of hydrophone 22 and accelerometers 24 as described in this example. Product A is Kao White™ brand bar, a leading soap bar in the Japanese market. Product B is DOVE™ brand bar from Nippon Lever, Japan.
25 Figs. 4A and 4C are signals from hydrophone 22 of two wash-off products. Product A has a quick rinse and feels very squeaky. As shown in Fig. 4A, the slimy region lasts about 5 seconds when the sound pressure is low. In the squeaky region, the sound pressure is higher than 100 Pa. and fine analysis shows the very strong
30 stick/slip signal. For product B, the slimy region lasts about 9 seconds and in the squeaky region, the sound pressure reaches peak value about 60 Pa. But most of signals remain under 45 Pa.

WO 2005/046474 PCT/EP2004/012751
- 22 -
More clear differences between the products can be observed by
comparison of skin vibration, as shown in Figs. 4B and 4D. Normal
(to the skin surface) vibration of skin surface is shown. The
acceleration shown in Fig. 4B can reach 6 g and the frequency of
5 the vibration is medium at the beginning of squeaky region and is
very low later, which indicates the strong stick/slip. Japanese
consumers usually perceive clean rinse when they reach these
rubs, and this it the preferred tactile perception for the
Japanese market. However, American consumers perceive this
10 tactile perception as harsh. In Fig. 4D, the acceleration is
much lower and the frequency is higher in the squeaky region,
which was correlated to a perceived smooth feel.
The combination of hydrophone 22 and accelerometers 24 reveals 15 the consumer perceptions during rinse and can be used as an
instrumental tool for conducting consumer tests for wash-off
products.
EXAMPLE 3 20
This example demonstrates evaluation of sensory properties of skin care leave-on products.
With reference to FIG. 1, system 10 for acoustic measurement and 25 evaluation of sensory properties of leave-on and wash-off
products included two accelerometers 24 (PCB 352A24, PCB
Piezotronics, Inc., Depew, NY) attached to the subject's forearm.
One accelerometer 24 was attached near the palm of the hand and
the other near the elbow, to sense the normal vibration of skin 30 surface. Two microphones 20 (1/2" type 4189 pre-polarized free-
field microphone, Bruel & Kjaer, Atlanta, GA) were mounted above
the two sites where accelerometers 24 were attached. To generate
skin vibration, the subject used the other hand (fingers) to rub

WO 2005/046474 PCT7EP2004/012751
- 23 -
the forearm starting at the elbow and continuing in the direction of the palm of the hand. Alternatively, a motorized "hand" equipped with loading cell and friction sensor can also be used to rub instead of using human fingers, in order to control the loading, rubbing speed and measure the friction at the same time.
All acoustic emission signals were collected by Pulse data
acquisition system 16 (Bruel & Kjaer, Atlanta, GA) and analyzed
subsequent to collection by storage, manipulation, and output
10 system 18.
In the following discussions, we only refer to the signal from accelerometer 24 located closer to the elbow.
15 Fig. 5 shows the results of normal acceleration for before and after applying a skin care leave-on product to a subject's forearm. With reference to FIG. 5A, before applying any skin care product, the skin vibrates in a certain band of frequency with certain amplitude. Fair & Lovely™ brand lotion, available from
20 Hindustan Lever Ltd, a dry matte product specially formulated for the Indian market preference, was applied to the forearm. It was observed that after application of the skin care product, the skin vibration changed as the product dried. With reference to FIG. 5B, while the product was still wet, the signal from
25 accelerometer 24 showed very low amplitude vibration with lower frequency. With reference to FIGs. 5C - E, during drying of the product, strong vibration peaks were observed. The strong vibration peaks related to the sudden releases of two stretched skin surfaces sticking together during sliding of fingers. At
30 that stage, the subject felt strong dragginess of the product, which is preferred by the Indian consumer and other. consumers in hot climates. Fig. 5F shows the acceleration of skin surface after the skin care product dried completely.

WO 2005/046474 PCT/EP2004/012751
- 24 -
FIG. 6 demonstrates that different leave-on products create different feelings. The vibration detected via accelerometers 24 can differentiate those feelings very sensitively. Fig. 6 shows two acceleration curves of two different products which give consumer different feelings. The signals are displayed at the same scale for easy comparison. Product 1 (data for which is shown in FIG 6A), Fair & Lovely™ brand cream, which feels dry and draggy, creates several strong vibration peaks which
10 correlate to the stick-slip event of two sliding surfaces. Product 2 (data for which is shown in FIG 6B), POND'S™ brand Age-defying Complex lotion (Chesebrough-Pond's, U.S.) produces an intermediate feel between smooth and draggy. Different consumers may prefer different tactile perceptions.
15
EXAMPLE 4
This example demonstrates an assessment of after-use feel for wash-off products using accelerometers 24.
20
Fig 7 shows two acceleration curves of after-feel. A consumer was asked to use two different cleansing products. After using certain amount of water for washing the products, the skin was patted dry with a tissue. The signals shown here were taken at 2
25 rain after dry. Fig. 7A shows the after-feel curve of Kao White™ brand bar, which makes skin more hydrophobic and produces a wdry" feel. Fig. 7B shows the acceleration of a quite different cleansing product, DOVE™ brand bar, that makes skin hydrophilic and produces a moisturization feel. The strong stick/slip peaks
30 were observed. The results show that the moisturization agents make the skin more tacky.

WO 2005/046474 PCT/EP2004/012751
- 25 -
EXAMPLE 5
The present invention is for objectively assessing attributes or condition of an area of human skin. Facial attributes, such as pores, wrinkles and photoaging, may be evaluated. The inventive system and method can be applied for consumer self-evaluation or for evaluation by a beautician or sales associate.
This example illustrates that an evaluation of pre- and post-10 treatment pore appearance is possible using acoustic emission
system 10, suggesting the validity and usefulness of the system
and method of the present invention.
Sheer Coverage™ brand foundation, available from Calvin Klein 15 Cosmetics Co., New York, was evaluated using acoustic emission
system 10. Good results were obtained. Consumers perceived a
difference acoustic emission system scale, as it correlated well
with the visually perceived improvement in appearance of pores
after application of the foundation.
20
EXAMPLE 6
This example illustrates the use of acoustic emission system 10 and method as a consulting tool at point of purchase and/or as a tool for communicating with consumers.
Generally, consumers in Japan reject for purchase or use soap bars they perceive as "slimy". A new soap bar, based on new technology, is developed and placed on the market in Japan. Acoustic emission system 10 and method are used to communicate to the Japanese consumers:
(a) that the new soap bar has changed tactile perception; and

WO 2005/046474 PCT/EP2004/012751
- 26 -
(b) what will be different for the consumer in terms of sensory and end benefit.
5 Conversely, the product newly formulated for Japan would now
be perceived as having an unpleasant "rub" by the American consumer, and a choice may be made available together with acoustic emission system 10 available at point of purchase to allow the consumer to select the bar that minimizes the unpleasant "rub."
10
The method can be used as a communication tool to consumers (e.g. advertising).
EXAMPLE 7
15
This example illustrates the use of acoustic emission measurement system 10 and method for determining the condition of the skin pre- and post- treatment, and the usefulness of visual improvement in untreated skin condition to induce the consumer to
20 continue using the product.
A consumer took a measurement of the pre-treatment condition of her facial skin using acoustic emission measurement system 10.
25 Subsequently, the consumer applied a POND'S Dramatic Results™ brand product, available from Chesebrough-Pond's, U.S., over a period of about four weeks. Another acoustic emission measurement was taken of clean facial skin without product application. The measurement indicated a significant
30 improvement in appearance of facial skin wrinkles over the period of use.

WO 2005/046474 PCTYEP2004/012751
- 27 -
Although the improvement after four weeks would not have been visually perceptible and would not have been perceptible to the touch, the improvement was evident from acoustic emission measurement, which encouraged the consumer to continue using the POND'S product.
Another advantage of the acoustic emission method of the present invention is that consumers cannot remember the condition of their skin before use. This method gives the consumers a way to compare the difference before and after use of cosmetic products. Therefore, acoustic emission measurements are a good tool for communicating with consumers regarding long term benefits of a given cosmetic product or regimen.
15 EXAMPLE 8
Acoustic emission signal expected to result from use of a
cleanser as shown in Fig. 2 was printed, folded into a
concertina, or pamphlet and placed in a carton also containing
20 the product.
EXAMPLE 9
This example demonstrates the utility of acoustic emission system 25 10 and method to define consumer preferences.
During a focus group study, 10 consumers were asked to pick out a skin cleansing product that left them with their "ideal" end point skin after-feel. The product selected by the majority of the consumers was evaluated using the inventive acoustic emission system 10 by the inventive method. With the acoustic emission profile in hand, different product formulations were evaluated to match the one preferred by the consumers.

WO 2005/046474 PCT/EP2004/012751
- 28 -
Thus the inventive system and method served as a tool to generate purchase intent in consumers, as well as a tool for developing products to suit consumer preferences.
5
EXAMPLE 10
This example discusses the use of acoustic emission system 10 and
method in the development and validation of clinical scale.
10
20
In the consumer study discussed above, consumers were also asked to characterize each of the products tested as leaving a "slimy," "smooth," or "squeaky" tactile perception on the skin. This
15
consumer data was correlated with acoustic emission signals for
each of the products, to develop an acoustic emission scale that corresponds to consumer perceptions of slimy, smooth, or squeaky. The results of this exercise showed that the two grading methods are highly correlated with one another. The acoustic emission images were thus used as anchors to generate a reproducible clinical scale for the grading of tactile skin perception.
In a separate exercise, two clinicians verified that there was a
high correlation between the consumer stated tactile perception
and the corresponding acoustic emission signal image.
25
EXAMPLE 11
This example demonstrates the utility of acoustic emission measurements according to the present invention in assisting with product selection.
POND'S Institute is set up in Spain, including a vending machine for personalizing leave-on and wash-off cosmetic products.

WO 2005/046474 PCT/EP2004/012751
- 29 -
Preparation of such products immediately upon demand has the advantages of custom products and is particularly advantageous for compositions including unstable ingredients which are best kept unmixed until close to time of use.
5
In this example, a consumer, with help from a beautician inputs personal preference information for a leave-on product (face cream) . Additionally, an acoustic emission measurement was taken to determine the condition of her skin, such as moisture level, skin oiliness, etc.
The vending machine produces a custom cream based on the preference information input by the consumer, as well as based on acoustic emission measurements of her skin condition.
15
EXAMPLE 12
This example demonstrates the utility of the acoustic emission
system 10 and method for measuring tactile perception of "tacky."
20
A consumer pushes and lifts fingers to and from a surface which can be described as "sticky," "powdery," etc. The skin vibrates during the pushing and lifting. Acceleration can be measured and
used to monitor the feel.
25
The procedure of this example is particularly advantageous for deodorant products, where "tack" is a very important tactile perception.
30 EXAMPLE 13
This example demonstrated the utility of acoustic emission system 10 and method for measuring the cleanliness of hard surfaces. In

WO 2005/046474
- 3
this example, acoustic emission measured.
The methodology of this example 5 cleaning products.

PCT7EP2004/012751
of skin touching glassware was
may be used to promote dish

10

Printed: 30/09/2005

CLMSPAMD-

04797796

- 31 -CLAIMS:
1. An acoustic emission measurement system for use as a clinical
tool to evaluate the efficacy of cosmetic skin care and/or
5 cleansing products, the system comprising:
(A) means for detecting an acoustic emission signal generated from skin/skin contact;
(B) means for collecting, storing and displaying said emission signal;
10 (C) means for correlating said emission signal with an attribute of said skin.
2. An acoustic emission measurement system according to claim 1,
wherein said means for displaying said emission signal
15 comprises a medium selected from the group consisting of Internet, camera, personal digital assistant, mobile phone, mobile camera phone, and advertising and promotional material selected from the group consisting of television, magazines, brochures, posters, flyers, and hand-outs.
20
3. An acoustic emission measurement system according to claim 1
or claim 2, wherein said attribute of said skin is pores,
wrinkles, photoaging, skin texture, or a combination thereof.
25 4. Use of an acoustic emission measurement system according to any preceding claim to evaluate the efficacy of one or more cosmetic skin care and/or cleansing products.
5. The use according to claim 4, wherein the use is by a
30 consumer, a beautician, a professional adviser, or combination
thereof.

Printed: 30/09/2005

CLMSPAMD

04797796

- 32 -
6. A method of defining a distribution of skin attributes on an
area of human skin for a population of individuals:
(A) providing a system according to any one of claims 1 to 3;
(B) generating acoustic emission data for the area of human
skin;
(C) analyzing the data thereby to define the distribution of
the skin attributes for the population of individuals.
7. A method of evaluating skin attributes on an area of human
10 skin of at least one individual in relation to a distribution
of the skin attributes for a population of individuals, comprising:
(A) defining the distribution of the skin attributes on the
area of human skin for the population of individuals by a
15 method according to claim 6;
(B) generating acoustic emission data for the area of human, skin for the at least one individual;
(C) analyzing the data thereby to evaluate the skin attributes of the at least one individual in relation to the
20 distribution of the skin attributes for the population of individuals.
8. A cosmetic product system comprising:
(i) at least one cosmetic composition for reducing the
25 appearance of at least one skin attribute; and
(ii) an acoustic emission system associated with said cosmetic
composition;
the acoustic emission system having a means for evaluating
current appearance of skin attributes or progress in reducing
30 the appearance of said skin attributes with the use of the
cosmetic composition.

Printed. 30/09/2005

CLMSPAMD

04797796

- 33 -
9. A cosmetic product system according to claim 8, wherein the cosmetic composition is within a container and the acoustic emission system and the container holding the cosmetic composition are held within a carton.
5
10.A cosmetic product system according to claim 8 or claim 9, wherein said skin attributes are selected from the group consisting of pores, wrinkles, photoaging, or skin texture.
10 11.A cosmetic product system according to any one of claims 8 to 10, wherein said acoustic emission system comprises a medium for indicia of at least two different conditions of said skin attributes, thereby allowing consumers or clinicians to distinguish the condition of said skin attributes resulting
15 from application and/or wash-off of a cosmetic product.
12.A cosmetic product system according to claim 11, wherein the medium is selected from the group consisting of Internet, camera, personal digital assistant, mobile phone and advertising and promotional material selected from the group consisting of television, magazines, brochures, posters, flyers, and hand-outs.
13. The use of a cosmetic product system according to claim 11 or
25 claim 12 to facilitate adherence by a consumer to a product
usage regimen on the basis of said distinguished conditions of said skin attributes.
14. The use of a cosmetic product system according to claim 11 or
30 claim 12 to facilitate cosmetic product selection on the basis
of said distinguished conditions of said skin attributes.

Printed: 30,09/2005

CLMSPAMD

04797796

34
15.A method for evaluating efficacy of a cosmetic product, the
method comprising:
(A) providing a cosmetic product system according to any one of claims 8 to 12; 5
(B) applying the cosmetic product to an area of skin;
(C) generating acoustic emission data for said area of skin;
(D) analyzing said data to assess said skin attributes; and
(E) repeating steps (C) and (D) at a future time followed by
comparison of data resultant from first and second
10 assessments of the skin.
16.A method according to claim 15, wherein said evaluation is a self-evaluation by a consumer or an evaluation by a clinician, beautician or sales assistant.
15
Date this 10th day of May 2006
HINDUSTAN LEVER LIMITED
(S. Venkatramani)
Sr Patents Manager

XP001205205
Abstracts

documenting skin aging features and the two investigators involved in this step of the study.
For the four investigators included in the study, the inter-observer agreement was found to be good to very good except for features related to skin color such as lentigines and telangiectasia.
Our results indicate that most of the grading scales presented in this study enable a good to very good reproducibility of assessment of the visible consequences of the skin aging process except for the modifications of skin color which need to be better documented.
Friction and elasticity
18
The frictional feel analyzer
M Takahashi, M Egawa, T Hirao Shiseido Research Center, Yokohama, JP
Background: Sensory evaluation is important in the testing of cosmetic products. Several devices for the measurement of sensory properties have been developed in recent years. The objective here is to measure skin surface friction using these devices and to examine the correlation with other physiological parameters in order to evaluate the feasibility of using physical measurement to predict tactile sensation. We have also studied the relationship between skin frictional parameters and sensory evaluation after application of cosmetics.
Methods: A KES-SE Frictional Analyzer (Kato Tech Co. Ltd., Japan), a commercial device for measurement of surface frictional characteristics, was used in this study. An arm holder was added to this device for measurement on the human forearm. Frictional coefficient (MTU) and its mean deviation (MMD) were used as parameters of surface friction. The moisture content in the stratum corneum was measured with a Come-ometer CM825, the transpidermal water loss with a Tewameter TM21Q, the viscoelastic proper^ ties of the skin with a Cutometer SEM575, and the skin surface pattern by observing the negative replica obtained with silicon rubber for untreated and SDS-treated forearm. MIU and MMD were also measured immediately, and at 4 and 7h after application of nine kinds of moisturizing lotion with different textures, and the sensory evaluation was made by panels of 149 normal healthy volunteers and six beauty specialists at

the same time as frictional measurement was done and on the morning after application. Results: MIU was.not influenced by load, but it was increased by water application on the skin. The relations between MIU and the moisture content in the stratum corneum, between MMD and skin surface pattern, and between MMD and viscosity of both normal human forearm skin and SDS-induced dry skin, were established by statistical analysis of test results with human subjects. There was a high correlation between MIU and sensory evaluation as moist, sticky and slippery. The changing pattern of MIU with time after application of cosmetics to skin was well correlated with the subjective sensation. Conclusion: Human skin surface friction was measured by using a KES-SE Frictional Analyzer after application of test cosmetics. A good correlation was found between MIU or MMD and the results of sensory evaluation. This instrumental analysis may be useful to predict the tactile impression of cosmetics on human skin.
19
Finger perception metrology. Correlation
between friction force and acoustic emission
F Flament1, R Vargiolu1, A Mavon2, P Humbert3, H Zahouani1
1Ecdle Centrale de Lyon, Ecutty, FR, 2Laboratoires Pierre Fabre, Toulouse, FR, 3Laboratoiredlngenierie Cutanie, Beson.on, FR
Introduction: The goal of this work is to assess the tactile perception by analysis of the friction forces and acoustic emission. A prototype of perception metrology was developed to quantify the friction and acoustic signals during the sliding of the finger on a surface of materials. It reproduces the natural movement of the touch: a gesture of horizontal friction which is adjusted in amplitude. The hand remains united of a motorized support describing with a constant speed of 10 mm. s-1 a journey of length 15 mm. The support of the tests is an instrumented membrane, which allows the measurement of normal and friction forces and acoustic signal. Before the acquisition, the normal force must be adjusted. The membrane can be covered with different type of surfaces (abrasive paper, tissue, leather...), allowing us a wide field of investigation.
Results: The finger sliding tests on various abrasive papers show a good correlation of the coefficient of friction and the variations of acoustic signal (amplitude and wave band). The coefficient of friction presents a decrease in the

168

XP001205205

interval (4 - 1,2) similar to the fall of the acoustic signal of the order of 10 in 15 dB in the ranges of considerable frequencies: [250 Hz - 700 Hz] and [1000 Hz - 1500 Hz]. The roughness effect can be assessed by the evolution of friction force and the frequency range of acoustic spectrum. The effect of the finger hydration was analyzed for twenty subjects by measuring before observation, five and fifteen minutes after hydration. We obtain an identical global evolution for the coefficient of friction (2 — 1,5 - 2) and the sound intensity [61dB-50dB-62dB]. These variations come along with a translation of the main peak [380 Hz-250 Hz-370 Hz] and modifications of spectral contents meaning that the sound of the friction depends on the state of hydration. Conclusion: We have established a good correlation between the force of friction and the acoustic signal, so the measures made with the finger, provided with an acoustic sensor on the skin, allow to the clinicians and to the cosmetic industry to estimate the sensory properties while making a natural gesture of the touch. The device can be used to study the impact of a cosmetic formulation on the skin by evaluating the variations of sweetness, adhesion but especially effect of hydration as well as pathologies of the cutaneous tissue (psoriasis, eczema, dry skins...).
20
Miniaturized probe for in vivo assessment of
stratum corneum biomechanicalproperties by
microtorsion
VGillon1, G Perie1, W Seipel2, G Pauly1
llaboratoires SeroUologupus, Dinisiondc Cognis, Pulnoy, FR, 2Care
Chemicals, Cognis Deutschknd GmbH & Co. KG, Dussddorf, DE
Objectives: Technologies able to measure biome-chanical properties of the stratum corneum in vivo are rare.
Practically, two main approaches could be mentioned as wave propagation celerity or use of microprobes.
Because the microprobes Jor this application are not commercially available, we have built an original device named "Corneospinometer" and equipped with such aprobe, in order to appraise quantitatively the stratum corneum state. Methodology: Behavior of the stratum corneum is evaluated under microtorsion.
More precisely, angular skin deformation is measured according to a mechanical torque applied at the skin surface by a probe, which

Abstracts
comprises a small needle being only 0.8 mm of diameter. Then the contact area is under 0.2 mm sand the appraisal is limited to thestratum corneum.-layer. An original technology allows to lower the needle till the skin in the axis of the probe, so that only the weight of the needle is applied on the skin and parasitic frictions are decreased (Fig. 1).
The device comprises a coil which has two functions. Firstly, it applies a periodic torque to the needle. Secondly, it measures the angular positioning of the needle. Because of stratum corneum heterogeneity, a previous study about the protocol of measurement was run, to determine how to sample. Influence of climatic conditions was studied and carefully controlled. Finally, the probe was automated. A specific algorithm rejects automatically wrong data and computes the average. Results: The result is expressed by a Dynamic Torsion Rate value (DTR) which is the ratio between mechanical torque (constant sinusoidal amplitude) and Angular Skin Deformation (variable).
A decrease of DTR corresponds to an improvement of stratum corneum suppleness because of a better hydration.
Moisturizing efficacy of a rinse-off shower gel was evaluated successfully versus placebo, on the forearm of human volunteers after 2 weeks of treatment.
Conclusion: The corneospinometer allows in vivo measurement of mechanical properties of stratum corneum with very low influence of other skin layers. This technique is very fast. The results are available immediately without any additional calculation. The results of the clinical study confirm the validity of the methodology.
21
Study of the mechanical properties of human
skin using the shear wave propagation method
A Barel, R Lambrecht, P Clarys Vrije Universiteit Brussels, BE
In vivo determination of the elastic properties and anisotropy of human skin can be determined using the shear, wave propagation method. The . Reviscometer RVM-600 R (Courage - Khazaka, Cologne, Germany) measures the resonance running time (RRT) between two sensors which are placed on the skin surface. The time that the acoustic waves travel from transmitter to receiver (RRT) is measured and expressed in arbitrary units related to time. The speed of propagation of the waves on the skin is inversely proportional to the stiffness and density of the tissues. RTT
169

Documents:

535-mumnp-2006-abstract.doc

535-mumnp-2006-abstract.pdf

535-mumnp-2006-abstract1.jpg

535-mumnp-2006-assignment.pdf

535-MUMNP-2006-CANCELLED PAGES(10-05-2006).pdf

535-mumnp-2006-cancelled pages(20-11-2008).pdf

535-MUMNP-2006-CLAIMS(20-11-2008).pdf

535-MUMNP-2006-CLAIMS(AMENDED)-(2-12-2008).pdf

535-MUMNP-2006-CLAIMS(AMENDED)-(3-12-2008).pdf

535-mumnp-2006-claims(granted)-(20-11-2008).doc

535-mumnp-2006-claims(granted)-(20-11-2008).pdf

535-mumnp-2006-claims.pdf

535-mumnp-2006-correspondance-received.pdf

535-MUMNP-2006-CORRESPONDENCE(2-12-2008).pdf

535-MUMNP-2006-CORRESPONDENCE(20-11-2008).pdf

535-MUMNP-2006-CORRESPONDENCE(3-12-2008).pdf

535-mumnp-2006-correspondence(ipo)-(1-12-2008).pdf

535-mumnp-2006-correspondence1(15-11-2008).pdf

535-mumnp-2006-correspondence2(4-9-2006).pdf

535-mumnp-2006-description (complete).pdf

535-MUMNP-2006-DESCRIPTION(COMPLETE)-(20-11-2008).pdf

535-MUMNP-2006-DRAWING(20-11-2008).pdf

535-mumnp-2006-form 1(10-5-2006).pdf

535-MUMNP-2006-FORM 1(20-11-2008).pdf

535-mumnp-2006-form 13(3-10-2007).pdf

535-mumnp-2006-form 18(4-9-2006).pdf

535-mumnp-2006-form 2(20-11-2008).pdf

535-mumnp-2006-form 2(granted)-(20-11-2008).doc

535-mumnp-2006-form 2(granted)-(20-11-2008).pdf

535-MUMNP-2006-FORM 2(TITLE PAGE)-(20-11-2008).pdf

535-mumnp-2006-form 3(10-5-2006).pdf

535-mumnp-2006-form 5(10-5-2006).pdf

535-mumnp-2006-form-1.pdf

535-mumnp-2006-form-2.doc

535-mumnp-2006-form-2.pdf

535-mumnp-2006-form-3.pdf

535-mumnp-2006-form-5.pdf

535-mumnp-2006-form-pct-isa-210(20-11-2008).pdf

535-mumnp-2006-power of attorney(14-11-2007).pdf

abstract1.jpg


Patent Number 227127
Indian Patent Application Number 535/MUMNP/2006
PG Journal Number 10/2009
Publication Date 06-Mar-2009
Grant Date 02-Jan-2009
Date of Filing 10-May-2006
Name of Patentee HINDUSTAN UNILEVER LIMITED
Applicant Address 165-166 Backbay Reclamation, Mumbai,400 020,
Inventors:
# Inventor's Name Inventor's Address
1 DUSSAUD Anne Unilever Home & Personal Care USA, 40 Merrit Boulevard, Trumbull, Connecticut 06611,
2 DING Junqi Unilever Home & Personal Care USa, 40 Cennecticut 06611, United States of America
3 LIPS Alexander Unilever Home & Personal Care USA, 40 Merrit Boulevard, Trumbull, Connecticut 06611, United States of America
PCT International Classification Number A61B 5/103
PCT International Application Number PCT/EP2004/012751
PCT International Filing date 2004-11-08
PCT Conventions:
# PCT Application Number Date of Convention Priority Country
1 10/712490 2003-11-13 U.S.A.