Title of Invention


Abstract A personal care composition is provided that when the composition is applied to the skin provides improved translucency to reveal a healthy skin color. The composition is based upon a mixture of dihydroxypropyl quaternary ammonium salt and cocoa butter.
Full Text FORM - 2
(39 of 1970)
The Patents Rules, 2003
(See Section 10 and Rule 13)
HINDUSTAN UNILEVER LIMITED, a company incorporated under
the Indian Companies Act, 1913 and having its registered office
at 165/166, Backbay Reclamation, Mumbai -400 020, Maharashtra, India
The following specification particularly describes the invention and the manner in which it is to be performed

The invention concerns personal care formulas, particularly for facial and body products, which allow visualization of underlying skin to be seen as having a healthy natural color.
Vitality is often evidenced by a person's face. Appealing features include a natural look of a person's own skin. Translucency is the property of a cosmetic formula which allows light to transfer into the ■ epidermis so that underlying skin can be seen. This includes visualization of blood vessels. A pinkish healthy skin color emanates therefrom,
U.S._Patent 7,175,836 B1 (Hart et al.) discloses a water-irvoil cosmetic composition containing conjugated finoleic acid which was shown to have an effect on improving brightness and radiance.
An object of the present invention is. to provide a cosmetic composition. Which delivers a natural look of healthy color, particularly through achievement of improved translucency-
. A personal care composition is provided which includes:
• (i) from 0.05% to 30% by weight of a dihydroxypropyl quaternary ammonium salt of structure AB,
wherein A is a cationic charged component of the salt AB, B is an anionic charged component of the salt AB, and A has a single quatemized nitrogen atom, at least two hydroxy groups and a molecular weight no higher than 250; (if) from 0.01 to 30% by weight of cocoa butter, wherein the quaternary ammonium salt is a dihydroxypropyltri(C1-C3alkyl) ammonium salt.
Now it has been found that translucency can be imparted to skin through a composition that includes
dihydroxypropyl quaternary ammonium salts and cocoa butter.
Thus, an important material of the present invention is dihydroxypropyl quaternary ammonium salts of structure AB, wherein A is a cationic charged component of the salt AB and B an anionic charged component of the salt AB, A has one quatemized nilrogen atom, at least two hydroxyl groups and a molecular weight no higher than 250 but preferably no higher than 200, and optimally no higher than 170.

Anionic charged component B may be organic or inorganic with proviso that the material is cosmetically acceptable. Typical inorganic anions are halides, sulfates, phosphates, nitrates and borates. Most preferred are the halides, especially chloride. Organic anionic counter ions include methosulfate, toluoyl sulfate, acetate, citrate, tartrate, lactate, gluconate, and benzenesulfonate. The number and charge of negatively charged component B will be sufficient to neutralize the positive charge of component A.
A preferred embodiment of the quaternary ammonium salts is the dihydroxypropyl tri(Ci-C3 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl) ammonium salts.
These salts may be obtained in a variety of synthetic procedures, most particularly by hydrolysis of chlorohydroxypropyitri(Ci-C3 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl) ammonium salts. Ordinarily the C1-C3 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl constituent on the quatemized ammonium group will be methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxymethyl and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred Is a trimethyl ammonium group known through INCI nomenclature as a "timonium" group. A most preferred species is 1,2-dihydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, wherein the CrC3 alkyl is a methyl group.
Another useful species of the quaternary ammonium salts is the material of structure (I).

Amounts of the quaternary ammonium salts may range from 0.05 to 30%, preferably from 0.1 to 25%, more preferably from 1 to 15%, optimally from 5 to 10% by weight of the personal care composition.
Another important component of the present invention is that of cocoa butter. The term "cocoa butter" is also defined as oleum theobromatis (theobroma oil). This material is obtained from the cacao bean by expression, decoction or extraction by solvent. Particularly common is a production method wherein cacao seeds are compressed between hot or cold plates. Typical properties are a specific gravity ranging from 0.858 to 0.864 (100/25°C), melting point between 30 to 35°C, refractive index (n 40/D) of 1.4537 to 1.4585; saponification number 188 to 200 and an iodine number from 32 to 43. Amounts of the cocoa butter may range from 0.01 to 30%, preferably from 0.1 to 15%, more preferably from 0.5 to 10%, and optimally from 1% to 5% by weight of the personal care composition.

Emollient materials may serve as cosmetically acceptable carriers. These may be in the form of natural or synthetic esters, hydrocarbons and silicones. Amounts of the emollients may range anywhere from 0.1 to 60%, preferably between 1 and 30% by weight of the personal care composition.
Among the ester emollients are:
(a) Alkyl esters of saturated fatty acids having 10 to 24 carbon atoms. Examples thereof include behenyl neopentanoate, isononyl isonanonoate, isopropyl myristate and octyl stearate.
(b) Ether-esters such as fatty acid esters of ethoxylated saturated fatty alcohols.
(c) Polyhydric alcohol esters. Ethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, diethylene glycol mono- and difatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol (200-6000) mono- and di-fatty acid esters, propylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polypropylene glycol 2000 monostearate, ethoxylated propylene glycol monostearate, glyceryl mono- and dnfatty acid esters, polygtycerol poly-fatty esters, ethoxylated glyceryl mono-stearate, 1,3-butylene glycol monostearate, 1,3-butylene glycol distearate, polyoxyethylene polyol fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid esters, and polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters are satisfactory polyhydric alcohol esters. Particularly useful are pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane and neopentyi glycol esters of C1-C30 alcohols.
(d) Wax esters such as beeswax, spermaceti wax and tribehenin wax.
(e) Sugar ester of fatty acids such as sucrose polybehenate and sucrose polycottonseedate.
Natural ester emollients principally are based upon mono-, di- and tri- glycerides. Representative glycerides include sunflower seed oil, cottonseed oil, borage oil, borage seed oil, primrose oil, castor and hydrogenated castor oils, rice bran oil, soybean oil, olive oil, safflower oil, shea butter, jojoba oil and combinations thereof. Animal derived emollients are represented by lanolin oil and lanolin derivatives. Amounts of the natural esters may range from 0.1 to 20% by weight of the personal care composition.
Hydrocarbons which are suitable cosmetically acceptable carriers include petrolatum, mineral oil, C11-C13 isoparaffins, polybutenes, and especially tsohexadecane, available commercially as Permethyi 101Afrom Presperse Inc.
Fatty acids having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms may also be suitable as cosmetically acceptable carriers. Illustrative of this category are pelargonic, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, hydroxystearic and behenic acids.

A wide variety of silicones including materials of liquid, solid or semi-solid consistency at room temperature can be useful as emollients for this invention. Liquid silicones include silicone oils which may be divided into the volatile and nonvolatile variety. The term "volatile" as used herein refers to those materials which have a measurable vapor pressure at ambient temperature. Volatile silicone oils are preferably chosen from cyclic (cyclometbicone) or linear polydimethytsiloxanes containing from 3 to 9, preferably from 4 to 5, silicon atoms. Commercially available volatile silicone oils include DC 200, DC 244, DC 245, DC 344 and DC 345, all supplied by the Dow Coming Corporation; SF-1204, SF-1202 Silicone Fluids, GE 7207 and GE 7158 sourced from GE Silicones; and SWS-03314 sourced from SWS Silicones Corporation.
Useful non-volatile silicone oils include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyatkylaryl siloxanes and polyether siloxane copolymers. The essentially non-volatile polyalkyl siloxanes useful herein include, for example, polydimethyl siloxanes with viscosities of from 5 x 10* to 0.1 m2/s at 25°C. Among tie preferred non-volatile emollients useful in the present compositions are the polydimethyl siloxanes having viscosities from 1 x 10"5 to 4x10"* m2/s at 25°C. Representative commercial materials include polyalkyl siloxanes sold under the Viscasil Series from G.E. Silicones, and the DC 200 series sold by the Dow Coming Corporation. Polyalkylaryl siloxanes including polymethylphenyl siloxanes such as SF 1075 methyl-phenyl fluid and 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (sold by Dow Coming Corporation) may also be useful. Illustrative polyoxyalkylene ether copolymers are commercially available as SF 1066 from G.E. Silicones, and PEG-10 Dimethicone available from Shin-Etsu.
Another class of non-volatile silicones are emulsifying and non-emulsifying silicone elastomers. Representative of this category is DimethiconeA/inyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer available as Dow Coming 9040, General Electric SFE 839, and Shin-Etsu KSG-18. Silicone waxes such as Silwax WS-L (Dimethicone Copolyol Laurate) may also be useful.
Amounts of the silicone may range from 0.05 to 50%, preferably from 0.5 to 40%, more preferably from 2 to 20%, optimally from 5 to 12% by weight of the personal care composition.
Surfactants may also be present in compositions of this invention. Total concentration of the surfactant when present may range from 0.1 to 50%, preferably from 1 to 25%, optimally from 1 to 10% by weight of the personal care composition, and being highly dependent upon the type of personal care product The surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric actives. Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are those with a C10-C20 fatty alcohol or acid hydrophobe condensed with from 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide per mole of hydrophobe; C2-C10 alkyl phenols condensed with from 2 to 20 moles of alkylene oxide; mono- and di-

fatty acid esters of ethylene glycol; fatty acid monoglyceride; sorbitan, mono- and d'h Cg-Cai fatty acids; and polyoxyethylene sorbitan as well as combinations thereof. Alky! polyglycosides and saccharide fatty amides (e.g. methyl gluconamides) and trialkylamine oxides are also suitable nonionic surfactants.
Preferred anionic surfactants include soap, alkyl ether sulfates and sulfonates, alkyl sulfates and sulfonates, alkylbenzene sulfonates, alkyl and dialky! sulfosuccinates, C8-C20 acyl isethionates, C8-C20 alkyl ether phosphates, C8-C20 sarcosinates, C8-C20 acyl lactylates, sutfoacetates and combinations thereof.
Useful amphoteric surfactants include cocoamidopropyl betaine, C12-C20 trialkyl betaines, sodium lauroamphoacetate, and sodium laurodiamphoacetate.
Adjunct humectants may be employed in the present invention. These are generally polyhydric alcohol-type materials. Typical polyhydric alcohols include glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol and mixtures thereof. The amount of adjunct humectant may range anywhere from 0.2 to 40%, preferably between 1 and 25%, most preferably between 2 and 15% by weight of the personal care composition. Most preferred is glycerin as an adjunct humectant or moisturizer.
Sunscreen agents may also be included in compositions of the present invention. Particularly preferred are such materials as ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, available as Parsol MCX®, Avobenzene available as Parsoi 1789®, and benzophenone-3 also known as Oxybenzone. Inorganic sunscreen actives may be employed such as microfine (1 to 100 nm) titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. Amounts of the sunscreen agents when present may generally range from 0.1 to 30%, preferably from 2 to 20%, optimally from 4 to 10% by weight of the personal care composition.
Preservatives can desirably be incorporated into the personal care compositions of this invention to protect against the growth of potentially harmful microorganisms. Particularly preferred preservatives are phenoxyethanoi, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, imidazolidinyl urea, dimethyloldimethylhydantoin, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid salts (EDTA), sodium dehydroacetate, methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazoiinone, iodopropynbutylcarbamate and benzyl alcohol. The preservatives should be selected having regard for the use of the composition and possible incompatibilities between the preservatives and other ingredients. Preservatives are preferably employed in amounts ranging from 0.0001% to 2% by weight of the personal care composition.

Compositions of the present invention may include vitamins. Illustrative vitamins are vitamin A (retinol), vitamin B2, vitamin B3 (niacinamide), vitamin BE, vitamin C, vitamin E, folic Acid and bfotin. Derivatives of the vitamins may also be employed. For instance, vitamin C derivatives include ascorby! tetraisopalmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glycoside. Derivatives of vitamin E include tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl palmitate and tocopheryl linoleate. DL-panthenol and derivatives may also be employed. Total amount of vitamins when present in compositions according to the present invention may range from 0.001 to 10%, preferably from 0.01% to 1%, optimally from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight of the personal care composition.
Another type of useful substance can be that of an enzyme such as amylases, oxidases, proteases, lipases, cellulases, elastases and combinations.
Skin lightening compounds may be included in the compositions of the invention. Illustrative substances are placental extract, lactic acid, niacinamide, arbutin, kojic acid, ferulic acid, Pisum Sativum (Actiwhite LS 9808, ex Cognis), resorcinol and derivatives including 4-substituted resorcinols and combinations thereof. Amounts of these agents may range from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight of the personal care composition.
Sunless tanners may also be formulated with compositions of this invention. Representative of this category is dihydroxyacetone, erythrulose, Troxerutin, melanin, mahkanni and mixtures thereof. Adjunct agents include amino acids, peptides, amines and combinations. Amounts of the sunless tanner may range from 0.1 to 15%, preferably from 0.5 to 10%, optimally from 1 to 5% by weight of the personal care composition.
Desquamation promoters may be present. Illustrative are the alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acids and beta-hydroxycarboxylic acids. The term "acid" is meant to include not only the free acid but also salts and CrC3o alkyl or aryi esters thereof and lactones generated from removal of water to form cyclic or linear lactone structures. Representative acids are glycolic, lactic and malic acids. Salicylic acid is representative of the beta-hydroxycarboxylic acids. Amounts of these materials when present may range from 0.01 to 15% by weight of the personal care composition.
A variety of herbal extracts may optionally be included in compositions of this invention. The extracts may either be water soluble or water-insoluble carried in a solvent which respectively is hydrophilic or hydrophobic. Water and ethanol are the preferred extract solvents. Illustrative extracts include those from green tea, chamomile, licorice, aloe vera, grape seed, citrus unshui, willow bark, sage, thyme and rosemary,

Also included may be such materials as lipoic acid, retinoxytrimethylsilane (available from Clariant Corp. under the Silcare 1M-75 trademark), dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA) and combinations thereof. Ceramides (including Ceramide 1, Ceramide 3, Ceramide 3B and Ceramide 6) as well as pseudoceramides may also be useful. Amounts of these materials may range from 0.000001 to 10%, preferably from 0.0001 to 1 % by weight of the personal care composition.
Colorants, opacifiers and abrasives may also be included in compositions of the present invention. Each of these substances may range from 0.05 to 5%, preferably between 0.1 and 3% by weight of the personal care composition.
Personal care compositions of the present invention may be in any form. These forms may include lotions, creams, roll-on formulations, sticks, mousses, aerosol and non-aerosol sprays and fabric (e.g. nonwoven texti!e)-applied formulations.
A wide variety of packaging can be employed to store and deliver the personal care compositions. Packaging is often dependent upon the type of personal care end-use. For instance, leave-on skin lotions and creams, sunless tanners and shower gels generally employ plastic containers with an opening at a dispensing end covered by a closure. Typical closures are screw-caps, non-aerosol pumps and flip-top hinged lids. Metallic cans pressurized by a propellant and having a spray nozzle serve as packaging for sprayable forms of the personal care products. Toilet bars may have packaging constituted by a cellulosic or plastic wrapper or within a cardboard box or even encompassed by a shrink wrap plastic film.
All documents referred to herein, including all patents, patent applications, and printed publications, are hereby incorporated by reference in their entirety in this disclosure.
It should be noted that in specifying any range of concentration or amount, any particular upper concentration can be associated with any particular lower concentration or amount
The following examples will more fully illustrate the embodiments of this invention. All parts, percentages and proportions referred to herein and in the appended claims are by weight unless otherwise illustrated.
A representative personal care composition of the present invention in the form of a cosmetic lotion is
outlined under table I.

6 DMDM Hydantoin (and) lodopropynyl butylcarbamate, Lonza Inc., Fairlawn, NJ
Illustrative of another cosmetic composition incorporating the quaternary ammonium salt and cocoa
butter according to the present invention is the formula of table 111.

Polysilicone-11 29
Cyclomethicone 59
Glycerin 10
Dihydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 1.2
Dimethicone copolyol 0.5
Cocoa Butter 0.3
EXAMPLE 4 A relatively anhydrous composition incorporating the quaternary ammonium salt and cocoa butter of the present invention is reported in table IV.

Cyclomethicone 60.65
Glycerin 11.00
Dimethicone 10.10
Squalane 6.00
Cocoa Butter 4.00
Dihydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 5.00
Isostearic acid 1.90
Borage seed oil 0.90
Retinyl palmitate 0.25
Ceramide 6 0.10
Tocopherol 0.10
An aerosol packaged foaming cleanser with a quaternary ammonium salt and cocoa butter suitable for
the present invention is ouffined in table V.


Sunflower seed oil 10.00
Glycerin 10.00
Maleated soybean oil 5.00
Cocoa butter 1.00
Polyglycero-4 oleate 1.00
Sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate 15.00
Sodium lauryl ether sulphate (25% active) 15.00
Cocoamidopropylbetaine 15.00
DC 1784® (silicone emulsion 50%) 5.00
Polyquatemium-11 1.00
Dihydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 1.00
Water Balance
A disposable, single use personal care towelette product is described according to the present invention. A 70/30 polyester/rayon non-woven towelette is prepared with a weight of 1.8 grams and dimensions of 15 cm by 20 cm. Onto this towelette is impregnated 1.0 grams of a composition including a quaternary ammonium salt and a silicone microemuision as outlined in table VI below.

Dihydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 4.00
Glycerin 12.00
Cocoa butter 1.00
Disodium capryl amphodiacetate 1.00
Giuconolactone 0.90
Silicone microemuision 0.85
Witch hazel 0.50
PEG-40 hydrogerrated castor oil 0.50
Fragrance 0.20
Vitamin E acetate 0.001
Water Balance

A toilet bar illustrative of the present invention is outlined under table VII.

Sodium soap (85/15 tallow/coconut) 77.77
Dihydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 3.50
Cocoa butter 2.00
Sodium chloride 0.77
Titanium dioxide 0.40
Fragrance 1.50
Disodium EDTA 0.02
Sodium etidronate 0.02
Fluorescer 0.024
Water Balance
Herein is reported a body lotion incorporating the quaternary ammonium salt and cocoa butter of the present invention.

Stearic Acid 2.00
Glycol stearate/stearamide AMP 1.10
Glycerol monostearate 0.55
PEG-100stearate 1.00
Dimethicone 1.00
Isopropyl palmitate 2.50
Cetyl alcohol 0.30
Cocoa butter 100
Dihydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 2.00
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryfoyldimethyl taurate 2.00
Tetrasodium EDTA 0.10
Glycerin 10.00
DC 1501 (cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicono!) 0.50
Glydant Plus® liquid 0.20

Dihydroxyacetone 1.50
Erylhrulose 0.20
Fragrance 0.80
Water Balance
Translucency measurements are reported herein. Skin is a translucent substance. When light is incident on skin, a small portion is reflected and scattered at the skin surface. Most of the light continues to penetrate into the skin to be scattered that changes the propagation direction. A portion of light also gets absorbed by skin chromophores such as blood and melanin at deeper layers of skin. The scattering of light inside the skin changes the light path and results in light diffusion from its original path. After multiple scattering, some of the light survives absorption and manages to return to the skin surface to escape into the reflection space. This portion is referred to as the diffuse reflected light. This diffuse reflected light goes through the absorption by the blood and melanin and therefore carries the distinctive signature of the absorbents that give skin its unique color.
Total skin spectral reflectance is the sum of the reflectance at and beneath the skin surface. Translucency is the light penetration and diffusion inside the skin. It is dependent on the optical scattering and absorption properties of the skin. Translucency is low when the scattering and absorption coefficients are high. This corresponds to the appearance of skin being hard and opaque with more uneven texture. Translucency is high when the scattering and absorption coefficients are low. This corresponds to the appearance of skin being soft with more even texture.
Translucency is related to the spectral reflectance. Skin translucency increases as the surface scattering decreases and more light penetrates into the skin. Therefore, the increase of skin translucency corresponds to the decrease of the total spectral reflectance.
Measurements were performed with a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM-2500C. This instrument utilizes two pulsed xenon lamps as light source and operates over a wavelength range from 360 to 740 nm. The color space is defined by the well known L* a* b*. Measurements were done by touching the spectrophotometer probe gently against the test area and taking three repeat reflectance spectra. These measurements were done at 10 minutes, 1 hour and 3 hours after product application.
Analysis of the data was as follows:
1. Reflectance spectra Change = "Spectra after application" - "Spectra of baseline (before

2. Delta L* = L* after application - L* of baseline.
3. The translucency change was measured by delta L*: decrease L* indicates more translucency.
4. The relative translucency was measured by normalized delta L*.
The normalized delta L* = delta L* / (sum of delta L* for sample A and the delta L* for sample B)
The application areas were three body sites on the forearm (4x5 cm2). Samples and dosing were as follows.
Site 1: Apply 2mg/cm2 sample A
Site 2: Apply 0.5mg/cm2 sample B
Site 3: Apply 2mg/cm2 sample A with 0.5mg/cm2 sample B (sample A and sample B mixed
together on site 3)
Sample A was a 12% dihydroxypropyltrimonium chloride in water. Sample B was 50% cocoa butter in a carrier oil (caprylic capric triglycerides).
Efficacy tests are reported in table IX. The normalized translucency values represent the change of reflectance between baseline and sample applied reflectance spectra.

Sample Active Ingredient Normalized Translucency
A (2mg/cm2) Dihydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.8
(0.5m g/cm2) Cocoa butter 0.2
A+ B (mixture of 2 mg/cm2 sample A and 0.5mg/cm2 sample B) Dihydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and cocoa butter mixture 1.42
By itself, the cocoa butter (sample B) had only a minor positive effect upon translucency. Sample A was the dihydroxypropyltrimonium chloride active which provided a much stronger improvement in translucency. Combination of the dihydroxypropyltrimonium chloride with cocoa butter unexpectedly gave a value of 1.42 revealing a substantial improvement in the healthy skin color property.

A personal care product comprising:
(I) from 0.05% to 30% by weight of a dihydroxypropyl quaternary ammonium salt
of structure AB,
wherein A is a cationic charged component of the salt AB, B is an anionic charged
component of the salt AB, and A has a single quatemized nitrogen atom, at least two
hydroxy groups and a molecular weight no higher than 250; (ii) from 0.01 to 30% by weight of cocoa butter. wherein the quaternary ammonium salt is a dihydroxypropyltrifC1-C3 alkyl) ammonium salt.
A composition according to claim 1 wherein the salt is dihydroxypropyfeimonium chloride.
A composition according to claim 1 or claim 2 wherein cocoa butter is present in an amount from 0.5 to 10% by weight
A composition according to claim 1 wherein the dihydroxypropyttr ammonium salt is present in an amount from 1 to 15% by weight


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Patent Number 256118
Indian Patent Application Number 2000/MUMNP/2009
PG Journal Number 19/2013
Publication Date 10-May-2013
Grant Date 03-May-2013
Date of Filing 27-Oct-2009
# Inventor's Name Inventor's Address
PCT International Classification Number A61K 8/41
PCT International Application Number PCT/EP2008/050614
PCT International Filing date 2008-01-21
PCT Conventions:
# PCT Application Number Date of Convention Priority Country
1 11/755008 2007-05-30 U.S.A.