|Title of Invention||
A METHOD FOR REDUCING COLOUR LOSS FROM HAIR TREATED WITH AN OXIDATIVE HAIR DYE
|Abstract||A method for reducing colour loss from hair treated with an oxidative hair dye, the method comprising the step of contacting the hair, either prior to or after treatment of the hair with the oxidative hair dye, with a colour protective composition comprising an organic amino acid selected from the group consisting of: (i) basic amino acids; (ii) urea; (iii) guanidine; (iv) a member selected from the group consisting of a salt of a basic amino acid, a derivative of a basic amino acid, a salt of urea, a derivative of urea, a salt of guanidine, a derivative of guanidine,(and mixtures thereof; and (v) mixtures of any of (i) to (iv).|
|Full Text||FORM -2
THE PATENTS ACT, 1970 (39 OF 1970)
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION (See Section 10; rule 13)
(1) TITLE OF INVENTION
A METHOD FOR REDUCING COLOUR LOSS FROM HAIR TREATED WITH AN OXIDATIVE HAIR DYE
(2) HINDUSTAN LEVER LIMITED, a company incorporated under the Indian Companies Act, 1913 and having its registered office at Hindustan Lever House, 165-166 Backbay Reclamation, Murnbai 400 020, Maharashtra, India
The following specification particularly describes the nature of this invention and the manner in which it is to be performed.
Field of the Invention
This invention relates to a method of reducing colour loss from hair, treated.with an oxidative composition, such as an oxidatives hair dye, using certain selected organic amino , compounds.
Background of the Invention
The most commonly used method of dyeing hair, particularly human hair, is oxidative dyeing in which a mixture of aromatic compounds, generally of the benzenoid series, which are themselves colourless, are converted by coupling reactions to a blend of coloured compounds within the hair fibers by oxidative processes. The colourless aromatic compounds, in a suitable base formulation, are normally mixed with hydrogen peroxide or other strong oxidizing agent shortly before use The coloured compounds or dyes are, typically, formed by oxidative -coupling between primary intermediates (usually diamine benzenes, or amino phenols) and. couplers which, are phenols or. related cyclic .compounds. Various shades are developed by using a mixture containing more than one of both the intermediate and the coupler.
The intermediates and couplers because of their low
molecular weights and water solubility diffuse easily into the hair where the coupling reaction takes place. The coloured products developed by oxidation, however, remain trapped in the hair by virtue of their higher molecular weights, relative insolubility in water and absorptive affinity to the internal hair surface.
Although permanence-is the objective of such oxidative dyeing methods, in practice it is difficult to achieve. The colour tends to fade over time and a contributory factor in fading is lack of wash-fastness. This means that the colour tends to leach out of the hair after repeated washing. This leads to gradual fading or changing of the applied colour. The action of other factors such as ultraviolet light, combing and perspiration- also affects the colour.
We. have now found that certain selected organic amino compounds:, in particular, arginine and urea, are effective for reducing colour loss from hair previously or subsequently treated with an oxidising agent such as an oxidative hair dye.
US 3,861,868 describes an oxidation dye composition comprising arginine or a protein or polypeptide having a high arginine content, and theorises that the arginine or proteins enhance the penetration of the dye precursors into the hair shaft, thereby stabilizing the dye molecules formed by oxidation.
In the above case the arginine or proteins are an integral component of the: dye composition itself. In contrast, the present invention provides a method in which the selected organic amino compounds are incorporated into a conventional hair treatment composition such as a shampoo or conditioner to be applied in a separate stage to the oxidative composition. Advantageously, such a shampoo or conditioner can be applied repeatedly to give a beneficial progressive build-up of. the colour protection effect, independently of the oxidative composition, for which repeated use would be damaging to the hair.
Summary of the Invention
The present invention provides a method for reducing colour loss from hair treated with an oxidative composition, such as an oxidative hair dye, the method comprising the step of contacting the hair, either prior to or after treatment of the hair with the oxidative composition, with a colour protective composition comprising an organic- amino' compound selected from: ',
(i) basic amino acids;
(iv) salts and/or derivatives of any of (i) to (iii) ;
(v) mixtures of any of (i) to (iv) .
Detailed Description of the Invention
According to the method of the present invention, hair is contacted,with a colour protective composition comprising. certain selected organic amino compounds as described above, either prior to, or after treatment of the hair with an oxidative composition.
Preferably the colour protective composition is applied after treatment of the hair with the oxidative composition.
By "treatment with an oxidative composition" is meant contacting the hair with an oxidative composition such as an oxidative hair dye.
The composition employed may be formed separately from the hair and'then appliedi It may also be formed' by mixing the-separate reactants as they are applied to the hair, for example by mixing the streams from separate aerosol
containers as the streams, are. applied Co the hair. It may also be formed by contacting the reactants with the hair to be treated as the reactants are applied to the hair, either concurrently or successively.
The term "oxidative dye" includes compounds and mixtures of compounds which can be oxidised under the treatment conditions described above to form hair colourants. It includes, for example, primary intermediates either alone or together with one or more couplers, autoxidative dyes, and melanin forming dyes such as DHI and its analogues. Hydrogen Deroxide is: the usual oxidising agent employed in conjunction with oxidative dyes. Other oxidizing agents for use in this context include perborates, persulfates and perhalites, particularly periodates. These oxidising agents are generally employed as ammonium salts or as salts of alkali metals.
Colour Protective Composition
The colour protective composition comprises an organic amino compound selected from:
(i) basic amino acids;
(iv) salts and/or derivatives of any of (i) to (iii) ; (v) mixtures of any of (i) to (iv). Basic Amino Acids .
Basic amino acids (i) may be selected from lysine, arginine
and histidine and mixtures thereof- These amino acids are hydrophilic due to their polar side chains. Lysine and arginine are positively charged at neutral pH, whereas histidine can be uncharged or positively charged depending on its local environment.
Arginine is the most preferred amino acid (i) in the method according to the invention.
The basic amino acids having a basic amino acid content of 50%, or greater, are often isolated from natural sources in the form of salts and hydrosalts, which, are also, suitable for use according to the invention. Such salts and hydrosalts are formed by reaction with mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, carbonic acid, sulfuric acid, nitric acid, and the like, or the organic acids such as formic acid, acetic acid, lauric acid, chloroacetic acid and the like. A suitable example is arginine hydrochloride.
An example of a suitable natural extract which is rich in arginine is aloe vera extract.
Guanidine. (iii) may also be present as a salts or hydrosalts
formed by reaction with mineral or organic acids as described above. A suitable example is guanidine hydrochloride.
The most preferred organic amino compounds in the method according to the invention are arginine and urea and their respective salts and/or hydrosalts.
Mixtures of any of'the above organic amino coinpounds may also be used.
The total amount of organic amino compound may suitably range from 0.01% to 10% by weight based on total weight of the hair treatment composition in which it is employed. Preferably, the amount of organic amino compound ranges from 0.02 to 5% by weight based on total weight, and will ideally range from 0.05% to 2% by weight based on total weight.
Colour; protective compositions according to the invention may suitably take the form of shampoos., conditioners., sprays, mousses, gels, cremes or lotions. Preferred forms are shampoos and conditioners.
Advantageously, the colour protective composition comprising an organic amino compound for use in the method according to the invention can be formulated as a shampoo and will then accordingly comprise one or more cleansing surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.
Suitable cleansing, surfactants:, which may be used singularly or in combination, are selected from anionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of anionic surfactants are the alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkaryl sulphonates, alkanoyl isethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, N-alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl ether carboxylates, and alpha-olefin sulphonates, especially their sodium, magnesium, ammonium and mono-, di-and triethanolamine salts. The alkyl and acyl groups generally contain from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and may be unsaturated. The alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl ether
phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylates may contain from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units per molecule.
Preferred anionic surfactants include sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulphosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulphate, sodium dodecylbenzene sulphonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzene sulphonate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauryl isethionate "and sodium N'-lauxyl sarcosinate. The most preferred anionic surfactants are sodium lauryl sulphate, triethanolamine monolauryl phosphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate I EO,. 2'EO" and 3EO,. ammonium" laurylsulphate and ammonium lauryl ether sulphate 1E0, 2E0 and 3E0.
Examples of amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants include alkyl amine oxides, alkyl betaines, alkyl amidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulphobetaines (sultaines), alkyl glycinates, alkyl carboxyglycinates, alkyl amphopropionates, alkylamphoglycinates, alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysultaines, acyl taurates and acyl glutamates, wherein the alkyl and acyl groups have from 8 to 19 carbon atoms. Preferred amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants include lauryl amine oxide, cocodimethyl sulphopropyl betaine and preferably lauryl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine and sodium cocamphopropionate.
The cleansing surfactant(s) may be present in shampoo compositions for use according to the invention in a total amount of from about 1 to about 4 0% by weight based on the total weight of the shampoo composition, preferably from about 2 to about 30% by weight, optimally from about 10% to 3 0% by weight.
Shampoos for use according to the invention can also include nonionic surfactants to help impart aesthetic, physical or cleansing properties to the composition. The nonionic
surfactant can be included in an amount ranging from 0% to about 5% by weight based on total weight.
For example, representative nonionic surfactants include condensation products of aliphatic- (C8 - C18) primary or secondary linear or branched chain alcohols or phenols with alkylene oxides, usually ethylene oxide and generally having from 6 to 30 ethylene oxide groups.
Other representative nonionics include mono- or di-alkyl alkariolamides.' Examples include'coco mono- or-di— ethanolamide and coco mono-isopropanolamide.
Further nonionic surfactants which can be included are the alkylpolyglycosides (APGs) . Typically, the APG is one which comprises an alkyl group connected (optionally via a bridging group) to a block of one or more glycosyl groups. Preferred APGs are defined by the following formula:
RO - (G)n
wherein R is a branched" or straight chain alkyl group which may be saturated 'or unsaturated and G is a saccharide group.
R may suitably represent a mean alkyl chain length of from about C5 to about C20. Preferably R represents a mean alkyl chain length of from about C8 to about C12. Most preferably the value of R lies between about 9.5 and about 10.5. G may be selected from C5 or C6 monosaccharide residues, and is preferably a glucoside. G may be selected from the group comprising glucose, xylose, lactose, fructose, mannose and derivatives thereof. Preferably G is glucose.
The degree of polymerisation, n, may have a value of from about 1 to about 10 or more. Preferably, the value of n lies
in the range of from about 1.1 to about 2. Most preferably the value of. n.. lies -in the range of from about 1.3 to about
Suitable alkyl polyglycosides are' commercially available and include for example those materials identified as: Oramix NS10 ex Seppic; Plantaren 1200 and Plantaren 2000 ex Henkel.
Likewise shampoos for use according to the invention can include other emulsifiers, conditioning agents, inorganic salts, humect.ants and similar; materials to provide the composition with desirable aesthetic or physical properties.
Representative conditioning agents include silicones. Silicones are particularly preferred conditioning agents for hair. Representative silicones include volatile and non¬volatile silicones, such as for example polyalkylsiloxanes (optionally end-capped with one or more hydroxyl groups), polyalkylaryl siloxanes, siloxane gums and resins, cyclomethicones, aminofunctional silicones, quaternary silicones and mixtures thereof.
Preferred silicones include- polydimethylsiloxanes (of CTFA designation dimethicone), siloxane gums, aminofunctional silicones (of CTFA designation amodimethicone) and hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxanes (of CTFA designation dimethiconol).
Various methods of making emulsions of particles of
silicones are available and are well known and documented in the art.
Suitable silicone emulsions are commercially available in a pre-emulsified form. This is particularly preferred since
the pre-formed emulsion can be incorporated into the shampoo composition by simple mixing.
Examples of suitable pre-formed emulsions include emulsions DC2-1310, DC2-1865, DC2-1870, DC2-1766 and DC2-1784, available from Dow Corning. These are emulsions of dimethiconol. Siloxane gums are also available in a pre-emulsifaed form, which is advantageous for- ease, of formulation. A preferred example is the material available from Dow Corning as DC X2-1787, which is an emulsion of cross-linked dimethiconol, gum..
The amount of silicone incorporated into compositions for use according to the invention depends on the level of conditioning desired and the material used. A preferred amount is from 0.01 to about 10% by weight of the total composition although these limits are not absolute. The lower limit is determined by the minimum level to achieve conditioning and the upper limit by the maximum level to avoid making the hair and/or skin unacceptably greasy. We have found that an amount of silicone of from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight of the. total composition, is a particularly suitable level.
A further preferred class of conditioning agents are per-alk(en)yl hydrocarbon materials, used to enhance the body, volume and stylability of hair.
EP 567 326 and EP 498 119 describe suitable peralk(en)yl hydrocarbon materials for imparting stylability and enhanced body to hair. Preferred materials are polyisobutylene
materials available from Presperse, Inc. under the PERMETKYL trade name.
The amount of per-alk(en)yl hydrocarbon material incorporated into compositions for use according to the invention depends on the level of body and volume enhancement desired and the specific material used. A preferred amount is from 0.01 to about 10% by weight of the total composition although these limits are not absolute. The lower limit is determined by the minimum level to achieve the body and volume enhancing effect and the; upper limit by the maximum level to avoid making the hair unacceptably stiff. We have found that an amount of per-alk(en)yl hydrocarbon material: of from. 0.5 to 2% by weight of the total composition is a particularly suitable level.
Shampoo compositions for use according to the invention may also include a polymeric cationic conditioning compound that is substantive to the hair and imparts conditioning properties to the hair.
The polymeric cationic conditioning compound will generally be present at levels of from 0.01 to 5%, preferably from about 0.05 to 1%, more preferably from about 0.08% to about 0.5% by weight. Synthetic or naturally derived polymers having a quaternised nitrogen atom are useful. The molecular weight of the polymer will generally be between 5 000 and 10 000 000, typically at least 10 000 and preferably in the range 100 000 to about 2 000 000.
Representative synthetic quaternised polymers include, for example: cationic copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and 1-vinyl-3-methyl-imidazolium salt (e.g., Chloride salt) (referred to in the industry by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, "CTFA". as Polyquaternium-16) copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (referred to in the industry by CTFA as Polyquaternium-11); cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-
containing polymers including, for example,
dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer (referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyguaternium 6) ; mineral acid salts of amino-alkyl esters of homo-and co-polymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids having from 3 to '5 carbon atoms, as described in U.S. Patent 4,009,256; and cationic polyacrylamides as described in W095/22311.
Representative naturally-derived quaternised polymers include quaternised -cellulosic compounds and cationic guar gum derivatives, such as. guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.. Examples are JAGUAR C-13S, JAGUAR C-15, and JAGUAR-C17, commercially available from Meyhall in their JAGUAR trademark series.
Compositions for use in accordance with the invention may also be formulated as a hair conditioner for the treatment of hair (typically after shampooing) and subsequent rinsing.
Such formulations will then accordingly comprise one or more conditioning surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.
Suitable conditioning-:surfactants are selected from cationic: surfactants, used singly or in admixture. Examples include quaternary.ammonium hydroxides or salts thereof, e.g chlorides.
Suitable cationic surfactants include cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethyiammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride,
dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride,
di dodecyl dime thy lammoni urn chloride,'
dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallowtrimethylammonium chloride, cocotrimethylammonium chloride, and the corresponding hydroxides thereof. Further suitable cationic surfactants include those materials having the CTFA designations Quaternium-5, Quaternium-31 and Quaternium-18. Mixtures of any of the foregoing materials may also be suitable. A particularly'useful -cation-re- surfactant for use in hair conditioners of the invention is
cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, available commercially, for example as GENAM1N CTAC, ex Hoechst Celanese.
In- hair conditioners for use according to the invention, the level of cationic surfactant is preferably from 0.01 to 10%, more preferably 0.05 to 5%, most preferably 0.1 to 2% by weight of the composition.
Conditioners for use according to the invention
advantageously incorporate a fatty alcohol material. The combined use of fatty alcohol materials and cationic surfactants in conditioning compositions is believed to be especially advantageous, because this leads to the formation of a lamellar phase, in which the cationic surfactant is dispersed.
Representative fatty alcohols comprise from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 16 to 20. Examples of suitable fatty
alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
The level of fatty alcohol materials is conveniently from 0.01 to 10%, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight of the composition. The weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fatty alcohol is suitably from 10:1 to 1:10, preferably from 4:1 to 1:8, optimally from 1:1 to 1:4.
Conditioners for use according to the invention can include other emulsifiers, conditioning agents, inorganic salts, humectants and similar materials to provide the composition with desirable aesthetic or physical properties. Silicones, as described above for shampoo compositions, are particularly preferred conditioning agents for hair.
As.further optional, components for inclusion- in shampoo or conditioner compositions for use according to the invention, in addition to water, may be mentioned the following
conventional adjunct materials known for use in cosmetic compositions: suspending agents, thickeners, pearlescing agents, opacifiers, salts, perfumes, buffering agents, colouring agents, emollients, moisturisers, foam stabilisers, sunscreen materials, antimicrobial agents, preservatives, antioxidants, natural oils and extracts, propellants.
The invention will now be further illustrated by the
following, non-limiting Examples.
Examples 1. to 3.
The following formulations were prepared. Examples 1 to 3 are Examples according to the invention. Comp.Ex. A and Comp.Ex. B are comparative examples.
The above formulations were tested as follows. For each test formulation, a hair switch was split into two, and one half twice bleached. The other half was twice bleached and coloured permanently. LAB chroma values were measured on a Hunterlab and the difference in coloured AE was calculated between bleached and bleached and coloured half switches. The switches were washed for up to 3 0 minutes in the test formulation and the percentage of decrease of colour difference between the coloured half switch and non coloured half switch due to colour loss was calculated. Four replicates were used per test formulation.
All of the test switches treated with the formulations of Examples 1 to 3 showed a perceptible decrease in colour loss after washing, compared with those treated with either of the Comp.Ex.A or Comp.Ex.B formulations.
1. A method for reducing colour loss from hair treated with an oxidative hair dye, the
method comprising the step of contacting the hair, either prior to or after treatment of the
hair with the oxidative hair dye, with a colour protective composition comprising an
organic amino acid selected from the group consisting of:
(i) basic amino acids;
(iv) a member selected from the group consisting of a salt of a basic amino acid, a derivative of a basic amino acid, a salt of urea, a derivative of urea, a salt of guanidine, a derivative of guanidine,(and mixtures thereof; and
(v) mixtures of any of (i) to (iv).
2. A method according to claim 1, in which the organic amino compound is selected from arginine, urea and mixtures thereof.
3. A method according to claim 1, in which the amount of organic amino compound ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight based on total weight.
4. A method according to claim 1, in which the colour protective composition is formulated as a shampoo composition.
5. A method according to claim 1, in which the colour protective composition is formulated as a hair conditioner.
Dated 22nd January 2002; Meghna Vaidya
Of S. Majumdar and Co (Applicants' Agent.)
|Indian Patent Application Number||IN/PCT/2002/00078/MUM|
|PG Journal Number||35/2007|
|Date of Filing||22-Jan-2002|
|Name of Patentee||HINDUSTAN LEVER LIMITED|
|Applicant Address||HINDUSTAN LEVER HOUSE, 165-166, BACKBAY RECLAMATION, MUMBAI 400 020, MAHARASHTRA, INDIA.|
|PCT International Classification Number||A61K 7/06|
|PCT International Application Number||PCT/EP00/06543|
|PCT International Filing date||2000-07-10|